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Gordon Ramsay eats Shark Fin Soup for the first time!
Gordon Ramsay之鲨鱼保育
I've come to one of the city's most exclusive restaurants, Imperial, to taste the soup for the very first time. Wow, nice. King's Food Shark Fin. Shark Fin Chef Chen Chi-Kwan doesn't speak English, but the Manager David is here to help me out. So in there, it's uh...chicken stock? Yes, the old hen. The Chinese ham. So this amazing broth has been cooking now for sort of eight to ten hours. And it's flavored with ham. And he's just darkening it with some soy sauce. So it's got sort of salty, slightly smoked flavor to it.
我来到了这城市最高级的餐厅之一，帝王级的，来初次尝试这汤。哇，很棒。御膳鱼翅。御膳鱼翅的主厨陈启光不会说英文，但是经理David在这帮我。所以在那里，它是...鸡汤？是的，老母鸡。中式火腿。所以这个神奇的煲汤到现在已经熬制了大约八到十小时了。而且他是用火腿调味的。还有他用一些酱油来给它加深颜色。所以它有某种咸的，有点烟燻过的风味。
The shark fin has been steamed, soaked and washed for days, and then led to a fuse in a basic chicken stock, and to the texture's dilateness(dilation). This one is a...? The shark fin...ugh...this way... Ninety pounds for that? Yes! Jesus! This one? Seventy quid. So ninety quid, seventy pound. So the quality of fin is judged by size and thickness.
鱼翅被蒸过、浸泡过且洗过好几天了，然后放到鸡高汤里融在一起，然后让组织膨胀。这个是一个...？鱼翅的...这边..。那要九十英镑？是!老天啊!这个呢？七十英镑。所以九十英镑，七十英镑。所以鱼翅的品质由大小和厚度来判断。
The broth is added to a heated plate pot, and once boiling, the fin goes in. Alright, and that's it? Finished? As you expect, I've gone for the most expensive bowl. So, throw in some garnish, a little wine vinegar, some bamboo shoots, and some coriander. The idea is to peel back the fin. What was the taste of a real proper shark fin soup? I mean, it's really...really bizarre. I mean, really bizarre, because it actually tastes of nothing. Almost like sort of plain glass noodles.
煲汤被倒进已加热的砂锅，一旦煮滚，鱼翅放进去。好吧，然后就这样？完成了？像你所想的一样，我选了最贵的那碗。所以，加上一些装饰品，一点红酒醋，一些竹笋，然后一些香菜。这概念就是要往后撕起鱼翅。真正正统的鱼翅汤的味道是怎样？我的意思是，他真的是...真的很怪异。我意思是，真的很怪，因为它完全没有味道。几乎像是某种无味的冬粉。
The broth is delicious, pretty good. But it could have anything in there. It could have chicken, sweet corn. It could have duck in there. This is pork belly. So, the soup is like the...the one item spoiling that is the shark fin. I want to ask the customers: why they prepare to spend so much money on something that to me taste of nothing. No, it's not...Mr. Ramsay. No, it's impossible. Relax...relax! No, it is VIP. I wanted to go and ask that table of VIP guest, who spend ninety pounds each on a bowl of soup, and they're denying me access into the dining room. Have you...uh, a piece of paper please. A pen and a piece of paper. The paper? Yes!
汤头很美味，非常棒。但是它里面可以有任何东西。它可以有鸡肉、甜玉米。它可以有鸭肉。这是猪五花。所以，这汤就像是...唯一把那搞砸的东西就是鱼翅。我想要问问顾客：为啥他们准备花这么多钱在对我来说没味道的东西上。不，不是...Ramsay先生。不，不可能。放轻松...放轻松!不，它是VIP包厢。我想过去问问VIP客人那桌，他们一人花九十英镑在一碗汤上面，然而他们不让我进那包厢。你有...一张纸吗，谢谢？一枝笔和一张纸。纸吗？是的!
Why do you enjoy eating shark fin soup? Umm... It's delicious. It's delicious, which is enough. Does it ever concern you the amount of sharks that we use and abuse in terms of the depleted stocks? Never. We never understand all that. Yeah. We never know. And it's now the most expensive soup in the world because of the price. Will you stop eating it or not? No, we still eat that, not very often, but sometimes, yeah. Special occasion. Yeah, special occasion. Mother's birthday. Happy birthday!
为什么你喜爱吃鱼翅汤？嗯...它很美味。它很美味，这就够了。就被消耗殆尽的资源来说，我们使用和滥用的鲨鱼数量有没有曾经让你关心过？从来没有。我们从来不了解那些。是啊。我们从不知道。而且由于价钱的关系，它是现在世界最贵的汤。你会停止吃它还是不会？不，我们还会吃那个，不是很常吃，但是有时候会吃，嗯。特殊情况。是的，特殊情况。母亲的生日。生日快乐!
For my first point of view, it was something that really to taste absolutely amazing...and yeah, I pulled my hand up saying "Christ", you know. But it doesn't deliver. And the sad news is that they rely on their history, most of the tradition from their parents, their grandparents to say, go eat this, because it's the symbol of status.
关于我的第一观点，它是某种尝起来绝对很棒的东西...而且对啊，我举起手来说“老天啊”，你知道。但是搞错了。而可悲的消息是，他们相信他们的历史，大部分来自于他们父母，祖父母的传统说，去吃这个，因为它是地位的象征。
My god! Look at this. Now I'm on top of the roof. And these are all laid out to dry. There must be thousands of them from here. It's a shark fin graveyard. With fins for sale on the shelf for up to two hundred pounds each, the amount of money on the roof alone is mind-boggling. It's a gold mine. This place is a fucking joke. Ok, she just called someone on the telephone. Let's get the fuck out of here. We're going. We're going. Yeah, yeah, we're going. Unbelievable! Fuck me! Let's get out of here before we get shot.
我的天啊!看看这个。现在我在屋顶上。而这些都被摊在外面晒干。这里一定有数以千计的鱼翅。它是个鱼翅坟墓。架子上有着在卖一片高达两百英镑的鱼翅，单单就这屋顶上的金额就是让人极为惊讶的。它是个金矿。这地方是个他妈的笑话。好，她刚刚打了电话。我们快他妈的离开这里。我们要走了。我们要走了。是，是，我们要走了。难以置信!我他妈的!让我们在被开枪打死之前离开这里。
Jesus Christ. I'm watching her, as a scalloped hammerhead, one of the most endangered shark species, has its fin sliced off, while still alive. It's a slow, long and drawn-out process. See! The animal is still alive and wiggling, the pure cruelty of this. Just imaging taking a lion in the savannas of Africa, cutting its arms off and just throwing them out in the savanna to bleed and to die. That would be extremely cruel. The meat of the hammerhead shark in Costa Rica, once they are this size, has no value absolutely. If they bring it back to the port, no one will buy it. So that's the...that's the incentive to...to fin. It's without doubt the worst act of animal cruelty I've ever seen.
我的老天啊。我正看着她，一条圆齿双髻鲨，一种最濒临绝种的鲨鱼种类，活生生的鱼鳍被切了下来。它是个缓慢的，长时间且持续很久的过程。看!那动物还是活的，还在扭动，这纯粹是残忍的。只要想像抓住一头非洲草原的狮子，砍下牠的四肢并就把牠们扔在草原流血等死。那会是极端的残忍。一旦长到这样的体型，双髻鲨的肉在哥斯大黎加绝对没有价值。如果他们把它带回港口，没有人会买它。所以那是...割取鱼鳍...那就是动机。这毫无疑问的是我所看过对动物最残忍的行为。
Hi, it's Gordon Ramsay. How are you? Good, good, good, good! I'm... Listen, thank you for your email. But I was just wondering if you could just fix a time, to give me five minutes of your time. I know you probably have no interest in meeting with me, but...umm...I think it's really important that we do meet. But, Mr. Cruise, I'm...I'm...I...I'm also a businessman. I...I run twenty-three restaurants. So, my business is uh...just like yours, very important to me. I'll come to you. Mr...Mr. Cruise, one more thing.
嗨，这是Gordon Ramsay。你好吗？好，好，好，好!我在...听着，谢谢你的电子邮件。但是我在想你可不可以乔个时间，给我五分钟。我知道你也许没有兴趣跟我见面，但是...嗯...我认为我们见面是很重要的。但是，Cruise先生，我...我...我...我也是个生意人。我...我经营二十三间餐厅。所以，我的生意是...就像是你的一样，对我来说非常重要。我来找你。Cruise，还有一件事。
But then some good news: Alaco contacts Lorandos. Daniel has managed to get me to a private dock. I'll be telling them I'm a chef. Ya. Yeah, I will. And even better, I try to go out and join a boat: shark fishing. Jesus! Look at that. It's like going to prison. Ya, haha... Hola, morning! But first, I get to watch a boat unloading its month catch. Hola. Hola. How are you? Two dollars a kilo for the meat versus twenty-eight dollars a kilo for the fins, there's no doubt what these fishermen are interested in: To have the fins, just the fins. Fin after fin after fin after fin. That's the price, fin there, that one there. That's where the money is. The tail, the most tender parts, and the part that's most sold after to China. I know this is legal, but to find a shit quantity of shark being landed, distressing. This is all for that one dish, the shark fin soup. It's honestly right now starting to make me feel fucking sick. It's relentless.
但是接着有些好消息：Alaco联络上Lorandos。Daniel已经想办法把我弄到一个私人码头去。我会告诉他们我是个厨师。是。好，我会。更好的是，我试着出去加入一艘船：捕鲨鱼。天啊!看看那个。它像是要去监狱一样。是啊，哈哈...哈萝，早安!但首先，我得以看到一艘船卸下它一个月以来的渔获。哈萝。哈萝。你好吗？鱼肉一公斤两美金和鱼鳍一公斤二十八美金相比，毫无疑问的这些渔夫们对甚么有兴趣：要有鱼鳍，只要鱼鳍。鱼鳍然后鱼鳍然后鱼鳍然后鱼鳍。那就是钱啊，那是鱼鳍，那边那个，银子就在那边。那就是银子所在的地方。尾巴，最嫩的部位，那部位大多数之后卖到中国。我知道这是合法的，但是看到一大堆的鲨鱼被吊起上岸，令人痛苦。这都是为了那道菜，鱼翅汤。它现在真的开始让我感到他妈的恶心。它是残酷无情的。
And now, I'm about to witness firsthand, how the sharks are being caught. I can't believe you are on this boat. You know that? My journey is taking me ten thousand miles from Taiwan, to the other side of the world, on this tiny boat. Fishing to meet Asia's huge demand for fins. I'm joining a crew of four, ten days into their month out at sea. This is a small boat, with a twelve-mile longline, with eight hundred hooks on there. Shark, shark. First shark, and it's a baby silky, one of the most overfished species in the world. Like most sharks, they give birth to very few pups, once every two years. Less than a year old, this shark has been killed before given a chance to reproduce. It's not the quick humane death I'm used to seeing with animals back home. It's hard to watch. Fucking hell. I've never been exposed to the reality of longline fishing. Shit. It's indiscriminate. It's a turtle, fucking hell. It's telling you how to be a fucking nightmare.
然后现在，我将要去第一手见证，鲨鱼是如何被捕捉。我不敢相信你在这艘船上，你知道吗？我的旅程把我带到离台湾一万英里之外，到世界的另一端，在这艘小船上。捕鱼来应付亚洲对鱼鳍大量的需求。我正加入了一个四人船员小组，在他们出海一个月的第十天。这是艘小船，有着十二英里的长钓线，在那上面有八百个鱼钩。鲨鱼、鲨鱼。第一条鲨鱼，他是条小丝鲨，世界上最为滥捕的品种之一。像大多数的鲨鱼一样，牠们很少生育幼鲨，每两年一次。不到一岁，这条鲨鱼在他有机会繁衍后代之前被杀掉了。它不是我一贯在家乡看到的动物快速的人道死亡。很难继续看下去。他妈的真惨。我从没见识过长线钓鱼的真相。狗屎。它是不加区别的。它是只海龟，他妈的真该死。它是在告诉你如何当个他妈的梦靥。
And discovery: What bait is that? Yokolu? A shark? Uh? Yeah. So you use shark as bait as well. What kind of shark was that as bait? It is thresher. Thresher? Thresher shark. Fuck me. Yes, it was. It's tragic that the body of a thresher shark is of such little value. They're using it as bait. Finish? The end of the line? Thank God for that. Just as the fishermen loading the hole with today's catch, I spot something coming out for that I haven't expected to see. Show me this here. When...when is that catch from? This is from yesterday? Shark fin? Jesus, that's pretty big. When's that one from? Yesterday? Yeah. Yeah? Wow, what kind of shark is that from? Thresher. Thresher. Jesus. What else you got in here? And in here? Nothing. And in here? Wow...wow... And where did this...this must be a big shark, this one. Jesus. I didn't see any signs of the body down below. If they bring this fin into the port, that will be breaking the Costa Rican law, which states the shark bodies must be landing with the fins attached. Those shark fins down there... You have dissected fins. Do you have any more fins on board? No, just that one. There's just one, no more. But it's...it's illegal to land the shark fin separated from the body. There's no problem, because it's just one. It's just one. If there were lots we'd be arrested.
然后发现：那是甚么鱼饵？Yokolu(外来语：一种鱼饵)？一条鲨鱼？啊？是啊。所以你也用鲨鱼当鱼饵。那用来当作鱼饵的鲨鱼是哪种鲨鱼？它是长尾鲨。长尾鲨？长尾鲨。他妈的。是，它是。真不幸长尾鲨的身体这么不值钱。他们用它当鱼饵。结束了？这是钓鱼线的尾端了？感谢老天。就在渔夫用今天的渔获装填这洞的时候，我看到某个东西出现，而这是我没预计会看到的。给我看看这里这个。什么时候...那是什么时候的渔获？这是昨天的？鱼鳍？老天啊，那个真大。那个什么时候的？昨天？是。是吗？哇，那是从哪种鲨鱼来的？长尾鲨。长尾鲨。老天啊。你这里面还有什么？还有这里面？没了。那这里呢？哇...哇...还有这从哪里...这一定是条大鲨鱼，这条。老天。我在下面没有看到任何鲨鱼身体的踪迹。如果他们把这鱼鳍带到港口，那会是触犯哥斯大黎加法律，它说鲨鱼身体必须在登上陆地时和鱼鳍连接在一起。那些下面的鱼鳍...你已经切开了鱼鳍。你船上有更多的鱼鳍吗？不，只有那一个。只有一个，没有更多了。但是它是...把鱼鳍从身体分开带上陆地是违法的。没问题，因为只有一个。只有一个。如果有很多个我们会被逮捕。
I suspect that those thresher fins belong to the body they were using as bait, because from what I've seen, there was no sign of a two meter shark down below. Such a small boat that don't really fit up, the boat with body of the shark at that size... So uh... Yeah, I mean... Fucking hell. I mean life is on the water, isn't that? So tough, very hard. These guys are under huge pressure to make money. And uh...some excuse, but... Yeah.
我怀疑那些长尾鲨鱼鳍属于他们用来当鱼饵的鲨鱼身体，因为从我所见，下面没有一条两公尺长鲨鱼的踪迹。如此的一艘小船真的装不下，这艘船跟那样体型的鲨鱼身体...所以啊...是啊，我是说...他妈的惨啊。我意思是靠海吃饭，不是吗？如此艰难、非常困难。这些家伙赚钱压力很大。还有啊...一些借口，但是...是的。
The plan is to show five of London's leading Chinese restaurants some footage of my journey, and to persuade them to take shark fin soup off their menus. I ask you here today for open debates, and I'm not here to accuse anyone of any wrong doing or misgiving. But after investigating the sort of shark finning industry in my program, I'm convinced by decreasing the demand for shark fin soup, it's possible to lessen the demand for fins. To give them an idea of the scale of the problem, I'm showing them what I found in Kaohsiung port in Taiwan. There must be thousands of them here. This is incredible. Is every roof like this?
本计画是要展示一些我旅程的片段给五家伦敦顶尖的中国餐厅看看，并说服他们把鱼翅汤从菜单中拿掉。我今天请你们来这里是为求公开的讨论，而且我不是在这指控任何人做错任何事情或是有疑虑。但是在我的计划里调查过那种鱼翅产业之后，我确信借由减少鱼翅汤的需求，是有可能减少鱼鳍的需求。要让他们了解到这问题的规模，我展示给他们看我在台湾高雄港所发现的。这里一定有数以千计的鱼鳍。这真难以置信。每个屋顶都像这样吗？
And Chinese cooking is always, and has been renowned for using everything. Five percent you know, off the fin, ninety-five percent is the by-product, you are wasting more than you're using. I guess, yeah. It's something that's been through tradition that shark's fin, umm, you know, is priced. Now, I know shark recipes that I know using the meat. So, when I look at that. I feel that: Yes, we should use the rest of the shark as well as the fin. Otherwise, not at all. I need to open their eyes to the barbaric and wasteful reality of finning. Of course it's shocking. Everyone in this room is here for a reason, because you can make a difference. That difference would be to start, alongside me with a campaign, to ban shark fin soup on the menu here in China town. The meeting went really well. It was a small but very powerful group of restaurants, and... if they are now agreeing with me to stop serving shark fin soup, that is a huge, huge advantage, because now others may follow.
而中国料理总是，已经以什么都用而著名。你知道百分之五，是鱼鳍，百分之九十五是副产品，你浪费的比用的更多。我猜，是的。它是某种东西已经经历传统的事物，鱼翅，你知道，是昂贵的。现在，我知道用鱼肉的鲨鱼料理。所以当我看到那点。我觉得：是的，我们应该用鲨鱼其他的部位同时也用鱼鳍。不然，一点也不要用。我需要让他们开开眼界看看取鱼翅的野蛮且浪费的事实。当然它很令人震惊。这房间里的每个人在这都有原因，因为你可以做出改变。那改变会是跟我一起，开始一个活动，在这中国城里，禁止把鱼翅汤放上菜单。会议进行的非常顺利。它是个小的但是非常有力的一群餐厅，而且...如果他们现在因为同意我的观点而停止卖鱼翅汤，那是个很大，很大的好处，因为现在其他人会追随。
