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Confronting the dangers of ultra-processed food
直面超加工食品的危害
Which is healthier: a bag of crisps or a kale salad?
哪个更健康:一袋薯片还是一份羽衣甘蓝沙拉?
That is easy.
这很简单。
Now which is healthier: a pizza made from scratch or one made from the same basic ingredients, with the same number of calories, pulled out of a box in the freezer?
那么，哪一种披萨更健康：是从头开始做的披萨，还是从冰箱的盒子里拿出来的，用同样的基本原料、同样的卡路里做的披萨?
Many people concerned with what they eat would instinctively say the former, perhaps citing a vague concern with “processed food”.
许多关心自己吃什么的人会本能地说前者健康，也许是出于对“加工食品”的模糊担忧。
Such food can often be delicious.
这样的食物往往很美味。
(This columnist has a particular weakness for salty potato crisps.)
(笔者特别喜欢咸薯片。)
And there is much to cheer about calories being cheap and abundant, when for most of human history they were neither.
卡路里既便宜又丰富，这是很值得欢呼的东西，在人类历史的大部分时间里都很稀缺。
But as Chris van Tulleken’s new book, “Ultra-Processed People”, explains, that cheapness and abundance come at a cost.
但正如克里斯·范·图勒肯的新书《过度加工者》里面所解释的那样，廉价且富足是有代价的。
Mr van Tulleken, a doctor and television presenter, draws a distinction between “ultra-processed food” (upf) and “processed food”.
医生兼电视节目主持人范·塔肯先生对“超加工食品”(upf)和“加工食品”进行了区分。
Almost everything people consume is processed in some form: rice is harvested and hulled, animals are butchered.
人们消费的几乎所有东西都经过了某种形式的加工:大米被收获并去壳，动物被屠宰。
He uses a definition proposed by Carlos Monteiro, a food scientist, describing upf as “formulations of ingredients, mostly of exclusive industrial use, made by a series of industrial processes, many requiring sophisticated equipment and technology”.
他使用了食品科学家卡洛斯·蒙泰罗提出的定义，将超加工食品描述为“原料的配方，主要用于专用工业用途，通过一系列工业过程制成，其中许多过程需要复杂的设备和技术”。
A pizza made from scratch contains minimally processed food (wheat turned into flour, tomatoes into sauce, milk into cheese).
从头开始制作的披萨含有最低限度的加工食品(小麦制成的面粉，西红柿制成的酱汁，牛奶制成的奶酪)。
The one in the freezer, with its thiamine mononitrate and sodium phosphate, is upf.
冰箱里的那个，含有单硝酸硫胺素和磷酸钠，已经过期了。
