He had a better time when he took the train to see the distributor in Turin, where the Italian pastas and his host’s camaraderie were more simpatico. “I had a wonderful couple of weeks in Turin, which is this charged-up industrial town,” he recalled. “The distributor took me every night to dinner at this place where there were only eight tables and no menu. You’d just tell them what you wanted, and they made it. One of the tables was on reserve for the chairman of Fiat. It was really super.” He next went to Lugano, Switzerland, where he stayed with Friedland’s uncle, and from there took a flight to India.

他乘火车来到都灵见批发商后，日子好过了一点儿，意大利面和主人的热情招待让他很高兴。“我在都灵度过了很美妙的几个星期，这是座充满活力的工业城市，”他回忆说，“那个批发商是个很棒的人。他每天晚上都带我去一个地方吃饭，那儿只有八张桌子，没有菜单。你只需要告诉他们自己想吃什么，他们就会给你做。其中一张桌子是为菲亚特的董事长预留的。那个地方真是太好了。”接下来他去了瑞士的卢加诺，见了弗里德兰的叔叔，然后从瑞士搭航班到了印度。

When he got off the plane in New Delhi, he felt waves of heat rising from the tarmac, even though it was only April. He had been given the name of a hotel, but it was full, so he went to one his taxi driver insisted was good. “I’m sure he was getting some baksheesh, because he took me to this complete dive.” Jobs asked the owner whether the water was filtered and foolishly believed the answer. “I got dysentery pretty fast. I was sick, really sick, a really high fever. I dropped from 160 pounds to 120 in about a week.”

到了新德里，一下飞机，乔布斯就感觉到跑道上扬起的阵阵热浪，尽管那时候才四月份。之前有人给了他一家酒店的名字，但是那家酒店客满了，所以他去了出租车司机竭力推荐的另一家。“我敢肯定他拿了酒店的小费，因为那地方实在太糟糕了。”乔布斯问老板酒店里的水是否过滤过，并且傻乎乎地相信了他的回答。“我很快就得了痢疾，我病了，病得很严重，发高烧，一个星期内我的体重从160磅掉到了120磅。”

Once he got healthy enough to move, he decided that he needed to get out of Delhi. So he headed to the town of Haridwar, in western India near the source of the Ganges, which was having a festival known as the Kumbh Mela. More than ten million people poured into a town that usually contained fewer than 100,000 residents. “There were holy men all around. Tents with this teacher and that teacher. There were people riding elephants, you name it. I was there for a few days, but I decided that I needed to get out of there too.”

等他恢复到可以行动的时候，他决定离开新德里。于是他去了印度北部城市赫尔德瓦尔，那里靠近恒河的源头，每三年就会有一次盛大的宗教集会。恰巧，1974年举行的是12年一轮的最大规模的集会，被称为“大壶节”（KumbhaMela）。超过1000万人涌进了这座常住人口不到10万、面积接近帕洛奥图的小镔。“到处都是教徒，帐篷里住着这个导师、那个导师。还有人骑着大象，无奇不有。我在那儿待了几天之后决定离开。”

He went by train and bus to a village near Nainital in the foothills of the Himalayas. That was where Neem Karoli Baba lived, or had lived. By the time Jobs got there, he was no longer alive, at least in the same incarnation. Jobs rented a room with a mattress on the floor from a family who helped him recuperate by feeding him vegetarian meals. “There was a copy there of Autobiography of a Yogi in English that a previous traveler had left, and I read it several times because there was not a lot to do, and I walked around from village to village and recovered from my dysentery.” Among those who were part of the community there was Larry Brilliant, an epidemiologist who was working to eradicate smallpox and who later ran Google’s philanthropic arm and the Skoll Foundation. He became Jobs’s lifelong friend.

他换乘火车和公共汽车来到了喜马拉雅山脚下，一座靠近奈尼塔尔（Nainital）的村庄。那里是尼姆·卡罗里大师居住（或者曾经居住过）的地方。乔布斯到达那里的时候，大师巳经不在人世了，至少不在今世。乔布斯从一户人家那里租下了一个房间，房间的地上有一块床垫。这户人家给他吃素食，帮他恢复了健康。“之前的一个旅行者留下了一本英文版的《一个瑜伽行者的自传》，我读了好几遍，因为也没什么其他可千的事。我在各个村落之间游荡，痢疾症状也消失了。”一起在此处静修的有一个叫做拉里·布里连特（LarryBrilliant）的流行病学家，他在印度致力于根除天花，后来负责管理谷歌的慈善机构以及斯科尔（Skoll）基金会。他成为了乔布斯的终生好友。

At one point Jobs was told of a young Hindu holy man who was holding a gathering of his followers at the Himalayan estate of a wealthy businessman. “It was a chance to meet a spiritual being and hang out with his followers, but it was also a chance to have a good meal. I could smell the food as we got near, and I was very hungry.” As Jobs was eating, the holy man—who was not much older than Jobs—picked him out of the crowd, pointed at him, and began laughing maniacally. “He came running over and grabbed me and made a tooting sound and said, ‘You are just like a baby,’” recalled Jobs. “I was not relishing this attention.” Taking Jobs by the hand, he led him out of the worshipful crowd and walked him up to a hill, where there was a well and a small pond. “We sit down and he pulls out this straight razor. I’m thinking he’s a nutcase and begin to worry. Then he pulls out a bar of soap—I had long hair at the time—and he lathered up my hair and shaved my head. He told me that he was saving my health.”

有一次，乔布斯听说一个年轻的印度教圣人要举办信徒聚会，地点是一名富商位于喜马拉雅山脉的住处。“我有机会遇到一个有灵性的人并且和他的信徒交流，也有机会好好吃上一顿。我们走近房子的时候就能闻到食物的香味儿了，我非常饿。”乔布斯在吃的时候，那位圣人——其实也不比乔布斯大几岁——从人群中选中了他，指着他，然后开始疯了一样地大笑。“他跑过来，抓住我，发出两声‘嘟嘟’声，然后说：‘你就像个小孩一样。’”乔布斯回忆道，“我并不喜欢他的这些举动。”圣人抓着乔布斯的手，带他离开了那群虔诚的信众，走上了一处高地，那儿有一口井和一小方池塘。“我们坐下来，他拿出了一把剃刀。我以为他是个疯子，开始有点儿担心，这时候他又拿出了一块肥皂——我当时留着长发——他给我的头发打上肥皂，然后给我剃了个光头。他告诉我他是在拯救我的健康。”

Daniel Kottke arrived in India at the beginning of the summer, and Jobs went back to New Delhi to meet him. They wandered, mainly by bus, rather aimlessly. By this point Jobs was no longer trying to find a guru who could impart wisdom, but instead was seeking enlightenment through ascetic experience, deprivation, and simplicity. He was not able to achieve inner calm. Kottke remembers him getting into a furious shouting match with a Hindu woman in a village marketplace who, Jobs alleged, had been watering down the milk she was selling them.

丹尼尔·科特基在那年的初夏到了印度，乔布斯回到新德里去见他。他们坐着公共汽车，漫无目的地晃悠。这个时候，乔布斯已经不是在寻找传授智慧的导师了，而是在通过苦行体验、感官剥离和返璞归真寻求启蒙。他做不到内心的平和。科特基记得他曾在村里的集市上与一个印度妇女有过一次激烈的争吵，乔布斯称这个女人在她出售的牛奶里掺了水。

Yet Jobs could also be generous. When they got to the town of Manali, Kottke’s sleeping bag was stolen with his traveler’s checks in it. “Steve covered my food expenses and bus ticket back to Delhi,” Kottke recalled. He also gave Kottke the rest of his own money, $100, to tide him over.

但乔布斯有时候也很大方。他们来到靠近中国西藏的马纳里镇（Manali），科特基的睡袋被偷了，他的旅行支票也在里面。“史蒂夫承担了我的饮食开销，还给我买了回新德里的车票。”科特基回忆说。他还把自己剩下的100美元都给了科特基，帮他渡过难关。

During his seven months in India, he had written to his parents only sporadically, getting mail at the American Express office in New Delhi when he passed through, and so they were somewhat surprised when they got a call from the Oakland airport asking them to pick him up. They immediately drove up from Los Altos. “My head had been shaved, I was wearing Indian cotton robes, and my skin had turned a deep, chocolate brown-red from the sun,” he recalled. “So I’m sitting there and my parents walked past me about five times and finally my mother came up and said ‘Steve?’ and I said ‘Hi!’”

在印度待了7个月后，那年秋天乔布斯启程回家，途中在伦敦逗留，拜访了一个他原本想在印度碰面的女人，然后从伦敦搭乘一班便宜的航班回到了奥克兰。在印度期间，他只零星地给父母写过几次信——那是他经过新德里时到美国运通公司驻当地办事处取邮件的时候——所以当接到他从奥克兰机场打来的电话让他们去接他的时候，他的父母还很惊讶。他们立刻从洛斯阿尔托斯开车出发。“我的头发被剃光了，身上穿着印度棉袍子，皮肤也被晒成了又黑又红的颜色，”他回忆说，“所以我坐在那儿，他们俩从我身边走过了差不多5次，妈妈才终于走上来说：‘史蒂夫吗？’我说：‘嗨！’”

They took him back home, where he continued trying to find himself. It was a pursuit with many paths toward enlightenment. In the mornings and evenings he would meditate and study Zen, and in between he would drop in to audit physics or engineering courses at Stanford.

乔布斯被带回了洛斯阿尔托斯的家，在那里试着找回自己。他会通过各种途径来追求精神启蒙。早上和晚上他会冥想和禅修，其他时间会去斯坦福大学旁听物理学或者工程学的课程。