一年里最热的季节马上将至,而这似乎也是全球时尚设计师推出他们的夏季盛装的最完美时间。
The hottest season of the year is fast approaching, and it seems to be the perfect time for fashion designers all over the globe to launch their summer collections.
The keyword for Dries Van Noten's new menswear spring-summer collection is camouflage. Prints are featured on shorts, pants, shirts and jackets. There's no middle ground: silhouettes are either unstructured and loose or tight and tailored.
One ensemble has it all: a see-through fencing shirt in blue and white branded with a horizontal strip of camouflage. To add to the symphony of confusion, this sheer shirt is paired up with thick check plaid trousers.
Dries Van Noten, designer, said, "Looking at men's prints I really asked myself what can I do which stays very masculine, really wearable for the guys. So I ended up with camouflage, a cliché, something very traditional but there are hundreds of different camouflages, so I looked at all of them and I selected the most graphic ones and by making quite elegant clothes, not like military stuff that you're used to seeing in it, it became something very graphic, something very abstract."
Kenzo holds a similar key philosophy: Clothes should be wearable. For spring-summer 2013, Kenzo designers travelled to the South Asian jungle, returning with one of the strongest and subtly vivid menswear collections of the season.
Humberto Leon, designer, said, "The brand "Jungle" is something that Kenzo introduced in 1970 and it was a really important part of the brand's history and so for us we wanted to really look at what to play around with jungle and so we decided to go and visit and really play around with it and it's our interpretation of what we saw in the jungle that we’re reinterpreting into the brand."
The true strength of the show lies in its grounded and subtle working of tonal color, a trick that few designers manage to grasp. And the rare result is comfortable harmony. The intense, hazy patterns perfectly capture the rainforest's dappled light, while referencing busy Asian fabric patterning. On their sophomore outing in menswear, Kenzo's design duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim pass with flying colors!