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The front pockets in women's jens suck.
女式牛仔裤前面的口袋是在是太恶心了。
They're either too small for any practical use or entirely nonexistent.
不是太小，不实用，就是根本没有。
And it's not for lack of wanting.
而这并不是因为人们不需要它。
A data viz website called The Pudding measured pocket sizes on 80 different pairs of jeans,
数据分析网站The Pudding测量了80条不同牛仔裤的口袋尺寸，
comparing men's and women's versions with the same waist size.
然后对相同腰围的男女款牛仔裤进行了对比。
The results varied per brand—Abercrombie, for example, showed very little difference in pocket size,
结果，不同品牌出现了不同的尺寸，比如，Abercrombie男女款口袋大小的差异很小，
while brands like J. Crew showed as much as a 5 inch difference in depth between men's and women's jeans.
而J. Crew等品牌男女牛仔裤深度相差多达5英寸（约12.7厘米）。
On average, women's front pockets are 48% shorter and 6.5% narrower than a man's—
平均来说，女士牛仔裤的前兜比男士的短48%，窄5%——
Meaning the majority of women's jeans are completely impractical for most things we carry around.
这也就意味着，对于我们要随身携带的大多数东西而言，大多数女士牛仔裤前兜的设计都是完全不切实际的。
But it wasn't always this way—in fact women used to have really large pockets.
但情况也并非一直如此——事实上，过去，女性的衣服口袋是非常大的。
And just how large are we talking?
到底有多大呢?
It's kind of like this.
差不多这么大。
Really large.
那真的很大啊。
From the 17th century through the 19th century,
17世纪到19世纪期间，
women's pockets were these large detachable things that tied onto a woman's waist underneath her skirts.
女性的口袋都是这种可拆卸的大口袋，绑在裙子内侧的腰部位置。
There were unfashionable, they were not very sightly, but they made perfect practical sense.
这种口袋不够时尚，不够好看，但绝对实用。
Because it didn't pull on the dress,
因为不会坠着你的裙子，
you could take them off during the day, if they were too heavy, you could change your pockets.
白天的时候你也可以把它们取下来；要是觉得太重了，你也可以换着带。
In the 18th and the 19th century, when these were really the norm,
18-19世纪，这种口袋在当时可是标准的女士口袋，
there were no complaints about women having no pockets.
那个时候没有任何人抱怨女士服装没有口袋这件事。
But over time, the silhouettes of dresses began to change and so did attitudes towards pockets.
但随着时间的推移，连衣裙的样式开始发生变化，人们对口袋的态度也随之变了。
Fashion journalists began rallying against the tie-in pocket, in favor of the reticule -- a small purse.
时尚记者们开始联合起来反对绑在裙子内侧的口袋而支持手提袋——也就是小钱包。
And you have two sides, you have those who call themselves the "pocketists" and those who are the "anti-pocketists."
当时的观点可以分成两派，一派自称“口袋主义者”，另一派自称“反口袋主义者”。
And the pocketists say, "no we like our old-fashioned pocket.
口袋主义者说，“不，我们就喜欢旧式的口袋。
They're practical, you know, they allow women to be independent."
很实际，它们给了女性独立的机会。”
And you have the anti-pocketists, who say "oh no, these are for grannies, modern women want the fashionable reticule."
反口袋主义者则反驳道：“哦不，那种口袋是给奶奶辈儿的人设计的，现代女性要的是时髦的手提袋。”
Despite these new trends, tie-in pockets were still very convenient and many women weren't ready to give them up.
尽管出现了这些新趋势，系在腰间的口袋在当时还是非常方便而且许多女性都还没有做好丢弃这种口袋的准备。
Especially because dressmakers struggled to include integral pockets in women's clothing.
尤其因为服装设计师们在给女装增加一体式口袋时遇到了困难。
They often placed them in inconvenient places like the bustle or the hem, making them difficult to find and frustratingly small.
他们通常都将口袋设计在了一些很不方便的地方，比如裙撑上或裙子下摆的位置，用起来既难够到，又小得让人失望。
Meanwhile tailors had been perfecting pockets since the 16th century in menswear,
与此同时，裁缝们从16世纪开始就已经开始改进男装的口袋了，
and at this point they were including various specialized pockets for all different types of objects.
在这个时候，他们已经为各种不同类型的物品设计出了各种专用的口袋。
So there's increasing discourse at the end of the 19th century, beginning of the 20th century,
所以，19世纪末20世纪初就出现了越来越多的讨论，
it was like why can't we have pockets? We want pockets. We want pocket equality.
思考为什么我们女性的衣服上没有口袋？我们也要口袋。我们要和男性平等的口袋。
You know, why are women forced to wear a handbag—it's so impractical—whereas men have everything in their pockets.
为什么女人要被迫带手提包——那么不实用——而男人什么都可以直接放到口袋里。
As more women entered the workforce, wearing pants became more mainstream.
随着越来越多的女性进入职场，裤子逐渐成为女士穿搭的主流。
In the 1930's Levi Strauss introduced the first pair of women's blue-jeans with pockets that measured within a quarter inch of mens pockets,
20世纪30年代，列维·施特劳斯推出了第一条口袋大小和男款的差距不到四分之一英寸的女式蓝色牛仔裤，
but these were primarily used by women who worked on ranches.
但这种裤子的主要消费人群是农场工作的妇女。
It wasn't until nearly 30 years later that blue jeans became the norm in fashion
直到近30年后，蓝色牛仔裤才成了女性时尚的标杆，
and from there, women's pockets fell victim to fashion over function:
也是从那时起，女装的口袋逐渐从功能取向沦为了时尚取向：
As styles began to slim and favor thinner waistlines, our pockets began to disappear
随着时尚风潮开始转向苗条，推崇纤细的腰线，我们的口袋也开始消失了，
because they ruined the silhouette—
因为口袋会破坏服装的版型——
Adding a front pocket to a pair of skinny jeans, for example, would stretch out the fabric in unflattering places for many women—
比如，在一条紧身牛仔裤上增加一个前兜会让很多女性的尴尬部位显得很紧——
especially because women's jeans tend to have a little extra stretch.
尤其是在女性的牛仔裤通常都有一点点额外的弹性的情况下。
And even when there's nothing in them, the lines of the pocket sac still show through, which is why many designers have removed the front pocket altogether.
即使口袋里什么都不装，口袋的线条还是可以显露出来，这就是许多设计师为什么要彻底抛弃前兜的原因。
While designers are now incorporating pockets into dresses again, and adding them to workout leggings, we're still kind of waiting on jeans.
虽然设计师们现在又开始把口袋设计到裙子里和紧身裤上，但我们依然盼望着实用型牛仔裤前兜的出现。
It's been over a century since tie-in pockets have been phased out in women's clothing and we've been asking for replacements ever since.
女装佩戴型口袋已经被淘汰了一百多年了，而而淘汰的那一刻起，我们一直在寻求那种口袋的替代设计。
But for now, most women's pockets are still about fashion—not function.
然而，就目前来看，大多数女装的口袋还是时尚取向——而不是功能取向的。
And while the fashion industry is slowly responding,
虽然时尚界已经在慢慢做出回应了，
hopefully we won't have to wait another 100 years for them to really figure it out.
但幸运的话，我们应该不用再等100年，设计师们就能真正想到解决办法了。
