As Nespresso has grown, it has come up against an awkward truth:
随着奈斯派索的发展,它遇到了一个棘手的的事实:
the more popular a brand is, the harder it is to maintain a luxury image.
一个品牌越流行,它就越难以维持一个奢侈的形象。
“Our competitor is not other coffee companies,” claimed Duvoisin.
“我们的竞争对手不是其他咖啡公司,”杜瓦辛声称。
“When you go into our boutique, you are comparing us to Dior or Louis Vuitton.”
“走进我们的精品店,你会把我们与迪奥或路易威登相提并论。”
That may have been true once, but its boutiques are now on every high street.
这曾经也许是对的,但是现在每条商业街上都有它的精品店。
At the Touchwood centre in Solihull, Nespresso is opposite an Ernest Jones and next to Pandora.
在英国索利哈尔的火绒中心,奈斯派索店就在一家欧内斯特·琼斯店的对面,旁边是潘多拉店。
On Cheapside, by St Paul’s in London, the boutique faces a Clintons Cards.
在伦敦的齐普赛街,圣保罗大教堂旁边的精品店里,摆放着一张克林顿夫妇的卡片。
Like other high-street businesses, Nespresso has been buffeted by months of coronavirus closure.
和其他大街上的店铺一样,由于冠状病毒关门,奈斯派索也遭受了数月的打击。
In its late-00s incarnation, when most of its pods were sold by mailorder or on the internet,
在2000年代后期,如果它的大部分咖啡胶囊通过邮购或互联网销售,
Nespresso would have been less affected by coronavirus.
奈斯派索就不会受到冠状病毒的很大影响。
(“When I was there we had the highest percentage profit margin in Nestle,” Gaillard told me.
(盖拉德告诉我,“我在公司时,我们的利润率是雀巢中最高的。
“But Nespresso did a ‘reverse-Amazon’. They had an Amazon and turned into a bricks and mortar business.”)
但是,奈斯派索做了一个“反向亚马逊”。他们从亚马逊变成了实体店。”
Nearly half a century after it was conceived, Nespresso finds itself in an uncomfortable new world.
自从奈斯派索诞生近半个世纪以来,它发现自己处在一个不舒服的新世界。
Consumers who might have once craved its polished, urbane chic
那些曾经渴望它精致、优雅的时尚的消费者,
now look for dirty-fingered artisanal blends to use with their pour-overs and Aeropress machines.
现在想要脏手指的手工混纺物来搭配他们的手冲咖啡和爱乐压咖啡机。
A Nespresso machine on the kitchen counter used to prove your membership of a convenience-loving global consumer coffee elite.
在过去,厨房柜台上的咖啡机可以表明你是爱好便携式咖啡的全球咖啡消费精英。
Increasingly it suggests that you are not a serious coffee person, and that your attitude to the future of the planet is suspiciously relaxed.
越来越多地,这表明你不是一位认真的咖啡客,你对于这个星球未来的态度是出奇的放松。
In its heyday, Nespresso fit a story consumers were keen to tell themselves:
在全盛时期,奈斯派索很符合这个消费者愿意告诉他们自己的故事:
that for a small premium, quality could be guaranteed, whether you were in Tokyo, Geneva or Los Angeles.
无论你是在东京、日内瓦还是洛杉矶,只要稍微多花点钱,咖啡质量就能得到保证。
Its range of capsules offered the sense of choice, but in reality it was just one option: Nespresso.
它的一系列胶囊提供了选择的感觉,但实际上只有一个选择:奈斯派索。
These days there are more than 400 competitor capsules.
现在市场上有400多种与之竞争的咖啡胶囊。
Cheap plastic ones, refillable eco-ones, limited-edition batches from faraway places.
便宜的塑料胶囊,可重复使用的环保胶囊,来自遥远地方的限量版胶囊。
Specialty coffee has infiltrated the general population to the extent that McDonald’s ran a gently sarcastic TV campaign about the flat white.
特色咖啡已经渗透到普通人群中,以至于麦当劳还在电视上对这种纯白咖啡进行了温和的讽刺。
Nespresso once wooed coffee lovers with its ease of use, and instant coffee drinkers with better coffee.
奈斯派索曾经以其简便的使用方式赢得了咖啡爱好者的青睐,也以优质的咖啡赢得了速溶咖啡爱好者的青睐。
Now there are alternatives for every taste.
现在,每种口味都有不同的选择。