In the denim capital of world Xintang in China, a river runs an iridescent blue.
在世界牛仔之都中国新塘,有一条流淌着彩虹般蓝色河水的河流。
Chemicals pouring out of the denim factories surrounding its banks dye the river to such an extent that the waterway can at times look like a vat of toxic chemicals.
河岸周围的牛仔工厂排出的化学物质将河水染得如此之蓝,以至于河水有时看起来就像一大桶有毒化学物质。
This river gives us a small glimpse into the environmental destruction of the textile industry.
这条河让我们窥见了纺织业对环境的破坏。
The constant churn of new clothes has created a massive footprint.
新衣服的不断更换留下了巨大的碳足迹。
Estimates put the total carbon emissions pouring out of the textile industry every year to be in the range of 2-8% of global emissions.
据估计,纺织业每年的碳排放总量约占全球排放量的2%-8%。
That is a substantial amount for just a single industry.
对于单个行业来说,这个数字是相当可观的。
Indeed, the world of fashion produces roughly 92 million metric tonnes of waste and uses an estimated 79 trillion liters of water a year.
事实上,时尚界每年产生约9200万公吨垃圾,消耗约79万亿升水。
And while fashion factories burn through resources, consumers churn through clothes.
时装厂耗费资源的同时,消费者在不停地折腾衣服。
The average American purchases a piece of clothing every 5.5 days, and from 1996 to 2012 the rate of fashion purchases increased by 40% in Europe.
美国人平均每5.5天购买一件衣服,从1996年到2012年,欧洲的时尚购买率增长了40%。
The pants and shirts produced in the imperial periphery satiate the demand for new trends in the imperial core.
帝国外围国家生产的裤子和衬衫满足了帝国核心国家对新趋势的需求。
But when it comes to clothing, all too often the environmental burden and indeed the burden of capitalist exploitation of workers gets placed on the consumer.
但在服装方面,环境负担,甚至是资本主义剥削工人的负担,往往会转嫁到消费者身上。
Much like BP’s devious invention of the carbon footprint to distract us from their polluting practices, we’ve somehow embraced a narrative that fast fashion is our problem.
就像英国石油公司用碳足迹这个概念转移我们对其污染行为的注意力的狡猾行为一样,我们不知何故接受了“快时尚是我们的问题”这种说法。
So, we buy ethical brands, or used clothing in order to change this massive industry.
因此,我们购买道德品牌的衣服或二手服装,以改变这个庞大的行业。
I want to make something clear, we cannot shop our way out of fast fashion.
我想澄清一件事:我们无法通过购物来摆脱快时尚。
Trends of ethical and sustainable consumption have been trying to do that for the last 25 years and have barely moved the needle.
过去25年,道德和可持续消费的潮流一直在试图通过购物摆脱快时尚,但几乎没有取得进展。
That’s because the problems of environmental and worker exploitation stem from the point of production and not consumption.
这是因为环境和工人剥削问题的源头是生产,而非消费。
This is not the problem of the individual consumer.
这不是个人消费者的问题。
The few clothing conglomerates like OTB, VF and LVMH are producing these goods and manipulating our world and our wants so that we continue to buy them.
OTB、威富公司和酩悦·轩尼诗-路易·威登集团等少数几家服装集团正在生产这些产品,操纵我们的世界和我们的需求,好让我们继续购买它们的产品。
In order to move the needle, in order to transform the fashion industry, we need to change the conditions within the factory.
为了改变现状,为了改造时尚业,我们需要改变工厂内部的条件。
We need to change the way we produce clothes.
我们需要改变生产服装的方式。