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129期|我们如何失去了与食物的感官联系(下)

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A 2020 paper analysing the self-reported experiences of long Covid sufferers on a Facebook group gave a sense of how the joy gets sucked out of food for those who can't smell.

2020年的一篇论文分析了脸书上长期感染新冠病毒的人的自述经历,让人感受到没有嗅觉的人是如何丧失了从食物中获取的愉悦/对食物的愉悦是如何被吸走的。

Some said that they lost their appetite while others had the opposite reaction, desperately eating more in an attempt to compensate for the loss of pleasure.

一些人说他们失去胃口,而另一些人则有相反的反应,他们拼命吃更多东西,试图弥补失去的快乐。

One person noted that "food satisfaction is lacking and I see myself eating more just to try to get that satisfied feeling … I am gaining weight due to a constant urge to satisfy what can never be satisfied".

一位网友指出:"我缺乏对食物的满足,我发现自己吃得更多只是为了获得那种满足感……我的体重增加,因为我一直渴望满足那种永远无法被满足的空虚。"

Given the sheer number of people around the world who have suffered from the virus, it seems that tens of thousands will be left living with permanent anosmia, or parosmia, a related condition in which those affected are tormented by horrible false smells such as burning rubber.

考虑到世界各地感染病毒的人数很多,成千上万人似乎会永久性嗅觉缺失或嗅觉倒错,这是一种与嗅觉缺失相关的疾病,患者会被可怕的虚假气味(如燃烧的橡胶)所折磨。

Yet before 2020, very few people even knew the word anosmia, let alone realised it might be something significant for their well-being.

然而在2020年前,甚至很少有人知道"嗅觉丧失"这个词,更不用说去想到这个词可能对他们的健康有重要意义。

Our ignorance about anosmia is part of a wider loss of engagement with our own senses in relation to food.

我们对嗅觉缺失的无知表明我们不再用感官去感知食物。

No human activity is more multi-sensory than eating, but to eat in the modern world is often to eat in a state of profound sensory disconnect.

没有哪种人类活动比吃东西要运用更多感官,但在现代世界,吃东西往往是在一种严重的感官封闭状态下进行的。

We order groceries on a computer, or takeaways on a phone, and they arrive wrapped in plastic, so that we can neither smell them nor see them before we take the first mouthful.

我们在电脑上订购食品杂货,或者在手机上点外卖,食物用塑料袋包装着送过来,在吃第一口之前既闻不到也看不到这些食物。

Vegetables are sold pre-chopped and almost all salad is pre-washed. Any hint of the soil the food grew in has been erased. We judge the goodness of food by the words on the packet rather than by our own senses.

出售的蔬菜是预先切好的,几乎所有的沙拉菜都是预先洗净的。食物生长在土壤中的任何迹象都被抹去了。我们根据包装上的文字来判断食物的好坏,而不是靠自己的感官。

In the US and UK, more than half of all calories consumed are made up of ultra-processed foods whose ingredients are so heavily disguised that they are beyond the power of human senses to disentangle.

在美国和英国,人们摄入的卡路里中超过一半是由超加工食品构成的,这些食品的原材料被严重掩盖,人类感官无法将其识别。

Very likely, we then eat this meal in front of a screen, barely glancing down to see the colours or shapes of what we are consuming.

很有可能,我们会边看电子屏幕边吃这顿饭,几乎不会低头看看我们吃进去的东西是什么颜色和形状。

Our sensory disconnect from food is both cause and consequence of the fact that so many of us have poor diets. This starts early. Consider commercial baby food.

我们的感官与食物的脱节是许多人饮食不良的原因,也是后果。这种现象很早就开始了。想一想售卖的婴儿食品。

Much of this is now sold as disposable pouches of pureed fruits and vegetables in which the colours and shapes of the original food are hidden.

现在的大部分婴儿食品以一次性袋装果泥和蔬菜泥的形式出售,原始食物的颜色和形状都隐而不见。

Parents like these pouches -- which often boast that their contents are organic -- because they are a convenient way to feed a baby or toddler while out of the home.

父母们喜欢这些口袋----这种商品常常夸耀里面的东西是有机的----因为在离家外出的时候,用它们给婴儿或蹒跚学步的孩子喂食很方便。

But as a report from the First Steps Nutrition Trust highlighted in 2018, these pouches are not a good way for babies to get their first exposure to food.

但正如"营养第一步信托基金"在2018年的一份报告中所强调的,这些口袋不是婴儿初次接触食物的好方法。

By sucking food directly from pouch to mouth (which seems to be how they are generally used, even if the manufacturers officially say that they recommend decanting the product into a bowl), children cannot tell what they are eating.

直接将食物从口袋吸到嘴里(通常似乎是这么吃的,虽然制造商的官方建议是将产品倒入碗中),这样孩子们无法知道他们吃的是什么。

Why does this matter? Dr Helen Crawley, a public health nutritionist, has noted that eating purees from a pouch does not help children to get accustomed to the tastes and textures of real food.

为什么这很重要呢?公共卫生营养师海伦·克劳利博士指出,吃口袋里的蔬果泥并不能帮助孩子们适应真正的食物的味道和质地。

The problem is that a pouch of sweet carrot gloop does not teach a person either to enjoy or to recognise real carrots.

问题在于一袋甜胡萝卜泥并不能教会一个人去享受或认识真正的胡萝卜。

重点单词   查看全部解释    
disposable [dis'pəuzəbl]

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adj. 用完即可丢弃的,可任意处理的
n.

联想记忆
consequence ['kɔnsikwəns]

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n. 结果,后果

联想记忆
bowl [bəul]

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n. 碗,碗状物,季后赛,圆形露天剧场
v.

 
satisfaction [.sætis'fækʃən]

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n. 赔偿,满意,妥善处理,乐事,确信

联想记忆
permanent ['pə:mənənt]

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adj. 永久的,持久的
n. 烫发

联想记忆
hint [hint]

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n. 暗示
v. 暗示,示意

 
nutrition [nju:'triʃən]

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n. 营养

 
screen [skri:n]

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n. 屏,幕,银幕,屏风
v. 放映,选拔,掩

 
boast [bəust]

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v. 吹牛,自夸,说大话
n. 自吹自擂,自夸

 
accustomed [ə'kʌstəmd]

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adj. 习惯了的,通常的

 

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