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Luciana Santos begs to differ. She was born in the Cerrado and lives there still, with her husband and four young daughters.
卢恰娜·桑托斯对此有不同意见。她出生于普拉托地区并定居至今，家里有丈夫和四个年轻女儿。
Her family is part of a community, a collection of villages known as a quilombo, whose first members escaped slavery some 250 years ago.
她的家庭属于一个由多处村落结成的“奎隆博”社区--祖先是250年前躲避殖民奴役的原住民。
Here, enfolded into the hills just beyond the boundaries of Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park, the roads remain unpaved, and electricity hasn't yet reached the farthest thatch-roofed homes.
群山环抱中的村子刚好坐落在沙帕达-杜斯维阿迪罗斯国家公园边界之外，村民仍走着乡间土路，有些位置最偏僻的茅屋人家至今没通上电。
Santos is 33 years old; when she was young, she had to walk two hours to get to school each way, though her daughters don't do that -- there's a new school in her village that becomes a community library at night.
桑托斯今年33岁，小时候为了上学要走单程两小时的山路，不过她的女儿们已不必如此，村里有了一所新学校，不上课的晚间兼做社区图书馆。
Currently, there are 44 separate quilombos in the Cerrado and about 80 different Indigenous ethnicities whose ancestors stretch back to pre-European times.
目前塞拉多地区有44个奎隆博社区和约80个土著民族，远祖可追溯到欧洲人抵达前的时代。
Some hunt, some farm, some fish, some graze livestock. Everyone sings different songs.
有些村民以狩猎为生，还有的种地、打渔或放牧。各家都有自己的山歌。
An accurate census of the Cerrado is elusive, but about 100,000 people are believed to live traditionally off the land.
塞拉多的准确人口数量无从查考，但据估计，以传统方式栖居于此的有10万人。
Several groups do not own the legal deeds to their territory, their future destined to be fraught with lawsuits and land battles.
其中几个群体没有取得所占领地的地契，未来难免要为了土地争端打官司。
The community Santos comes from has embraced tourism. Sharing the Cerrado, they believe, helps save it.
桑托斯所在的社区支持发展旅游业。他们相信与外界分享塞拉多有助于拯救它。
They don't want bulldozers approaching their hills; they have everything to lose. Any visitors willing to take the long drive from Brasília are welcome.
他们不希望推土机迫近家门口的山林，这是攸关生存的大事。任何不畏路途遥远肯从巴西利亚来此的客人都会受到欢迎。
Santos is one of the guides. Walking the footpaths around her quilombo, she sees through the chaos of shrubs and trees and bushes, indecipherable to most outsiders, and points out ingredients she regularly uses.
桑托斯是村里的游客向导之一。她行走于奎隆博社区周围的步道，外地人眼里一团乱麻的高矮树木和灌丛在她看来清清爽爽，她还指出了经常使用的原料。
"These leaves make a lotion for skin care," she says. "Brew a tea with this for muscle ache. This one's good for bug bites."
“这样的叶子可以做成护肤乳液。这个泡水喝治肌肉痛。被虫咬了用这个，”她说。
Tiny black frogs dart abruptly across the path. "They do that when it's about to rain," she says, and a few minutes later it does.
细小的黑色蛙类急急跳过路面。“天快下雨的时候它们就会这样。”她说，几分钟后果然下起来了。
Santos gained her knowledge of the natural world from her grandmother and mother -- "and some from men too, but they're harder to learn from" -- and vows that she will pass on everything to her daughters. "I will not allow our culture to die."
桑托斯对自然世界的知识来自祖母和母亲，“也有跟男人学来的，不过他们不太爱教。”她发誓会把所有知识传给女儿们，“可不能让我们的文化灭亡。”
Prepackaged goods occasionally arrive by truck, but her community, like every quilombo, can grow all its own food.
包装好的商品偶尔会从外面用卡车运进来，但她的社区和其他“奎隆博”一样能在口粮方面自给自足。
They did it for a couple of centuries, coaxing the soil to yield rice, beans, pumpkins, cassava. Nothing is sprayed with pesticides.
当地人务农已经几百年经验，巧妙地侍弄土壤使其长出稻米、豆子、南瓜和木薯。
You can drink the water right out of the streams. Chickens and cows are raised for meat, rivers provide fish, berries are plentiful.
所有庄稼都不用杀虫剂，溪涧的水可以直饮。养鸡养牛以获肉食，河里有鱼，浆果多得吃不完。
Buriti palm trees offer roofing material and creamy fruits. Mangaba trees produce plumlike, sugary treats.
曲叶矛榈的叶片可以用来搭屋顶，果实有奶油般的口感。萌甲果甜甜的像李子。
But the local favorite, Santos says, is definitely the pequi -- a fruit native to the Cerrado that's a little complicated and a touch dangerous to eat, as there are needlelike spines inside that must be carefully avoided.
桑托斯说，当地人最喜欢的还是塞拉多原产的巴西油桃木果实，俗名“佩基”，吃起来略为麻烦甚至有点儿危险，因为要小心避开果肉里面尖锐的棘。
The flavor, a trace of bitter lemon and a hint of cheddar cheese, doesn't immediately appeal to everyone, but for those who can adapt to the taste, the pequi often becomes a prized delicacy.
它的味道夹杂了少许苦柠檬和切达奶酪的口味，作为水果不是大众一吃就会喜欢的类型，但对于吃惯了的食客就是人间美味。
The pequi, Santos implies, is like the Cerrado itself. If you're able to adjust in just the right ways, the prickliness and oddities are not merely tolerated but deeply adored.
桑托斯觉得塞拉多就像这佩基果一样，如果你能以正确的方式适应它，那么它带着刺的古怪风味不仅无伤大雅，反而成了令人钟爱的特质。
"I have never wanted to live anywhere else," she says. One person's wasteland is another's wonder.
“我从没想过去别的地方生活。”她说。一个人眼里的荒凉绝境是另一个人眼里的乐园。
