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台北美食一日游

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2:30 P.M. XIAO CHI STANDS

Heading west -- take a right as you exit Wistaria -- you'll hit two of this area's most popular xiao chi stands, or street-food stalls. Both usually have long lines, so bring a friend, a book or a lot of patience. (If you don't want to taste these foods here, there are clean, well-lighted restaurants later on in the walk.)

First, try the turnip cake at the stand at the corner of Heping East Road and Wenzhou Street (closed Sundays). One cake costs 75 U.S. cents. Taipei foodies swear by this stuff, and are willing to wait in nerve-straining lines to get their fix.

Next, order the pan-fried dumplings in the Shida Night Market -- it's called a night market, but food is served from the early afternoon through to the wee hours of the morning. Weave your way over to Longquan Street, and look for Xu Ji Sheng Jian Bao at No. 24, a food stall famous for this kind of dumpling. You can try just one for 20 cents, but most people buy five for 90 cents.

Exit the Shida market and backtrack your way north on Longquan Street -- you'll hit Yongkang Street after a leisurely 20-minute walk. This street boasts typical Taiwanese xiao chi, but in nicer surroundings than a typical night market.

Hao Ji Mei Shi Zhuan Mai Dian, on the west side of the street (No. 1, Lane 10), serves southern Taiwanese xiao chi -- local favorites include tu tuo yu gen, a hearty soup with chewy, breaded lumps of fish, and crispy oysters with pepper (in the local Taiwanese dialect, Minnan, this dish is called oasu; in Mandarin, it's ke zi su). A small bowl of the soup costs $1.50 and a small dish of oasu runs $3.

Heading north on the same side of Yongkang Street, you'll hit the restaurant Yongkang Kou (No. 1, Lane 6). Here, if you dare, sample two of Taiwan's most famous dishes, stinky tofu or chou doufu ($1.30) for a small serving), which lives up to its name, and oysters in a broth with vermicelli-like noodles (oamisua in Taiwanese, $1.15 for a small bowl; $1.60 for a large one).

Now, cross to the other side of Yongkang Street, turn left (north), and look for Tu Hsiao Yueh (No. 9-1 Yongkang St.).

Here you can sample southern Taiwanese-style minced pork noodles (danzi mian), either dry or in soup. A small serving costs $1.50. Wash down your noodles with the island's standby brew, Taiwan Beer ('Taiwan pijiu' or 'Taipi' for short); one bottle costs $2.65.

下午2点半:小吃

从紫藤庐茶馆出来向右拐,也就是径直向西走,你会看到这一地区最受欢迎的两家小吃摊。通常情况下,两家店门口都会排起长队,所以最好带上个朋友,或者一本书,要么就要有足够的耐心(如果你不想尝试这里的食物,再往前走,我们待会儿还会去几家干净卫生、宽敞明亮的餐厅)。

首先,在和平东路和温州街拐角的那家店尝尝他们的萝卜糕(星期日不开门)。一块萝卜糕的价格是75美分。台北的食客们很喜欢吃这玩意,宁愿去排令人头疼的长队,也要满足自己的口腹之欲。

接着,在师大夜市点一份锅贴。这里虽然叫做夜市,但是从午后到凌晨一直都在营业。穿过拥挤的人群走到龙泉街,找到24号因为生煎包而闻名的“许记生煎包”。你可以花20美分买一个尝尝,但是大多数人一般都会花90美分买五个。

从师大夜市出来,沿着龙泉街向北往回走,慢行20分钟后,你会走到永康街。这条街因有传统的台湾小吃而颇有名气,而且这里的环境要比传统的夜市好一些。

在永康街路西(10巷1号),有一家“郝记美食专卖店”(音),在这里可以吃到台湾南部的小吃。当地人最喜欢的小吃中包括土?鱼羹──醇厚料足的羹汤,配上炸过的鱼块,以及蚵仔酥──煎炸过的脆脆的牡蛎,再配上胡椒。小碗土 鱼羹的价格是1.5美元,而小碗蚵仔酥的价格为3美元。

沿着永康街西侧往北走,你会看到“永康口”饭店(6巷1号)。如果你够胆量,可以在这里尝尝台湾最有名的两种小吃,臭豆腐(一小块儿1.3美元)──味道也名符其实和蚵仔面线(1.15美元一小碗,1.6美元一大碗)。

现在,到永康街的另一侧,向左拐(往北走),去找一家名为“度小月”的饭店(永康街9-1号)。

在这里,你可以品尝一下台南风味的担仔面,分干面和汤面两种。一小碗的价格是1.5美元。一边吃着面条,一边还可以喝着本地产的台湾啤酒(简称“台啤”),一瓶台啤的价格是2.65美元。



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