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Coach COH -2.69% laid out on Thursday the strategy it hopes will help it win back the market share it has lost in North America to the likes of Michael Kors KORS -0.85% and kate spade KATE 2.59% , and accelerate its growth overseas.
蔻驰（Coach ）上周四透露战略规划，以期从迈克尔高司（Michael Kors）和Kate Spade等竞争对手手中夺回曾属于自己的北美市场份额，同时推动海外业务加速增长。
The New York handbag and leather-goods companytold Wall Street analysts that it planned to close 20% of its full-service stores in North America, where comparable sales fell 21% last quarter, in the coming months. The brand will consolidate some of its factory stores in the region as well. It will try to make up for that with better spots in department stores and high-touch flagship stores in the 12 major North American markets where it gets half of its sales.
这家总部设在纽约的手袋及皮革制品公司向华尔街分析师透露，它计划于未来数月内关闭北美20%的全业务门店。这家公司第一季度北美同店销售额下滑了21%。蔻驰还将关停北美地区的部分工厂店。与此同时，蔻驰将努力在北美地区打造更出色的百货店中店及更注重客户体验的旗舰店来弥补关店的损失。这家公司在北美12个主要市场的业务占它销售总额的一半。
In September, it will start selling the first collection designed by creative director Stuart Vevers, who has focused on the 73-year-old company’s heritage and New York roots. The new collection is a nod to Coach classics—and an effort to start to win back shoppers who thought the brand had grown too showy in recent years.
蔻驰将从9月份开始销售创意总监斯图亚特o维佛斯设计的第一个产品系列。维佛斯的产品设计理念依托于蔻驰73年历史的传承和纽约根源。这个系列的产品系意味着对蔻驰经典的回归，标志着这家公司在努力重新赢得一些昔日拥趸的青睐。在这些粉丝的印象中，蔻驰品牌近几年变得太花哨了。
Even in China, the motor of its sales growth of late, Coach is tweaking its approach, closing stores in locations that have become less attractive and opening new stores in better spots.
即使在中国市场（也是它近期的销售增长引擎），蔻驰也在调整经营策略：关闭客流不理想的门店，另择新址开设新店。
Investors proved nervous and sent shares down 9% after the company said returning to growth could take a while.
投资者对蔻驰忧心忡忡。这家公司表示恢复增长可能需要一段时间的消息传出后，公司股价应声下挫了9%。
Coach CEO Victor Luis, who took the reins in January after helping build the luxury company’s international business in recent years, sat down with Fortune at Coach’s Manhattan headquarters for an exclusive interview to discuss his strategy.
蔻驰CEO维克多o路易斯近日在公司曼哈顿总部接受了《财富》杂志的专访，阐述了他扭转业务颓势的策略。路易斯今年1月份走马上任，出任蔻驰CEO。此前几年，他一直在这家奢侈品公司国际业务部门担任高管。
Fortune: In closing stores in many smaller markets, do you not risk ceding the opportunity in such locations to rivals like Michael Kors, which is expanding?
《财富》：在许多规模较小的市场关闭门店，你们会不会因此把当地的机会拱手让给迈克尔高司这类正在扩大门店网络规模的竞争对手？
Most of the moves are not about giving up on total markets. They are in markets where we have more than one location. In all of the malls where we are closing stores, we have a wholesale location, either at a Macy’s M 0.12% , a Bloomingdale’s, or another partner.
我们大部分的动作并不是彻底放弃某一个市场。在他们所在的市场中，我们的店面数量都不止一处。在所有我们计划关闭门店的购物中心，我们无一例外都有一个批发店面，要么设在梅西百货（Macy’s），要么是在布鲁明戴尔百货
Why the focus on the 12 major North America markets, rather than a broader footprint?
你们为什么专注于北美12个主要市场，而不寻求更广阔的市场空间？
They represent over half of our sales, and certainly they represent the most important tourist destinations. They are the PR (public relations) and marketing megaphones to the world because a lot of the consumers who shop there tend to be the trendsetters as well.
我们在这些市场的业务占到公司总销售额的一半以上，当然它们是最重要的旅游目的地。它们是面向全球的PR（公共关系）和营销扩音器，因为在那里购物的消费者往往是引领潮流的人。
How does your e-commerce, which you are overhauling currently, play into this shift away from malls?
你们正在大举调整的电子商务业务在去购物中心化的战略转变中扮演什么角色？
Part of this is not Coach-specific. Part of what we are seeing in general is reduced traffic to the American shopping mall, driven by an increase in e-commerce. Certainly, with many of the consumers that would normally be shopping in these smaller locations, one of the opportunities is going to be how we can engage with them via our web site.”
在一定程度上，这并不是蔻驰特有的问题。受电子商务增长影响，美国各大购物中心的客流减少了。当然，考虑到许多消费者通常会在这些小店面购物，其中的一个商机在于我们如何能通过我们的网站为他们服务。
You say Coach will enhance its locations inside North American department stores. How and why will you do that?
你说你们将巩固在北美百货大楼内的蔻驰门店。你们具体会采取什么做法？背后的原因是什么？
We are making investments targeted at making up for the store closings. There is a place for the American department store, and in those that we choose to be in, we want to look good.
为弥补部分门店关张带来的损失，我们正在进行针对性的投资。其中，美国各大百货公司就占有一席之地。而在我们相中的百货大楼内，我们希望提升蔻驰门店的形象。
In many of the locations, we’re going to be bringing Coach-funded sales specialists who will be able to ensure there is a level of customer service. Coach will have its own staff at 50 shops inside a department store next year, and triple that in another 2 years. [Until now, such sales staff were employed by the department store.]
我们将在众多蔻驰门店内引进蔻驰聘请的销售专员，确保高水准的客户服务。明年，我们会在50家百货大楼门店内部署内部蔻驰员工。再过两年，这个数字将增加至150家。（目前为止，蔻驰百货大楼门店的销售人员均由百货公司聘用。）
Coach announced today that it is looking for a spot to have a big New York City flagship—why is this important?
蔻驰刚刚宣布了在纽约选址开设一家大型旗舰店的计划。为什么纽约旗舰店计划这么重要？
[It] would be the epicenter of Coach globally, a reflection of our total brand here, in the city where we were born, in the city that is our number-one inspiration. That is a very important project for us, and that search continues.
纽约旗舰店将成为蔻驰全球的正中心，反映出我们品牌扎根于这座城市。纽约不仅是蔻驰的诞生地，也是它最大的灵感源泉。这对我们来说是一个非常重要的项目，目前选址工作还在全力进行中。
How does your New York heritage play into your expansion plans in Europe, where you remain a small player in many key markets and where many upscale and luxury brands are much older and better established?
在欧洲众多核心市场，历史更悠久的众多高端奢侈品品牌林立，而你们的业务规模仍然较小。蔻驰的纽约历史传承在你们的欧洲扩张计划中将发挥什么作用？
We have to go in there with a combination of ‘yes, we have a history and heritage of craftsmanship as the leading U.S. house of leather, but we are also a fashion and lifestyle resource that is today indicative of the New York fashion style.’
我们凭借两点进军欧洲市场：“没错，作为美国领先的皮革制品公司，我们拥有手工艺历史和传承，但我们同时也是时尚和生活方式的潮流引领者，是如今纽约时尚风格的风向标。”
Vevers has dived into Coach’s archives, an approach that has informed his first collection for Coach. How does the focus on Coach’s history help you?
维佛斯一头扎进蔻驰的历史中，为他的首套蔻驰系列作品带来了灵感。专注于蔻驰的历史能发挥什么作用？
There is a generation of consumers who don’t know Coach of earlier years and others who do, and I think what we need to do, and are trying to do, over the next 12-18 months, is ensure that consumers are aware of our core, what is our DNA, who are our roots, who we are.
虽然有一代人对我们的历史了然于心，但年轻一代消费者并不十分了解早年的蔻驰。我认为我们需要做、而且正在尝试做的就是：在未来的12-18个月内，确保消费者了解我们的内核，也就是我们的DNA。了解我们的根，我们是谁。
You are closing some locations in China, and replacing them with others. Why are you willing to run the risk of slowing your growth in a market that is increasingly important to you?
你们正在关闭中国的一些店面，代之以新设的店面。你们为什么愿意在这个日益重要的市场去冒增长放缓的风险？
Things in China move so rapidly so great malls, great department stores that were the right place to be 5 years ago, may no longer be that place. We’re taking an aggressive stance in ensuring we are in the right locations by making the tough decision to close some stores and move them to better locations.
中国市场日新月异，5年前很适合我们的大商场和大百货公司如今可能已经不再是最佳的选择。我们正在以积极的攻势确保获得最佳的店址。这就需要我们做出艰难的决定，也就是关闭一部分门店，把它们转移到更好的地段。
