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PARIS — It was Look 25 that stood out, and not for any of the intended reasons.
巴黎——Look 25品牌脱颖而出，但却不是故意安排的缘故。
It takes a lot to upstage snout-like helmets made of frizzed hair, but a German model known as Jera managed it on Thursday afternoon.
要比打理成猪鼻状头盔的蓬松长发更抢风头还真不容易，但一个名叫吉瑞(Jera)的德国模特在星期四的下午就做到了。
As he made his way down the runway in the Rick Owens show at the Palais de Tokyo here, he pulled a piece of white cloth from somewhere beneath his sea-foam-green top and oversize black shorts. And then, as he turned toward the editors and buyers in the front row, he unfurled a hand-lettered banner that read “Please Kill Angela Merkel — Not.”
他在里克•欧文斯(Rick Owens)东京舞厅的走秀上亮相，身穿海绿色上衣和宽大的黑色短裤，突然从衣服下面拿出一块白布。然后他转向第一排的主编和买手，展示白布上手写的大字：“请杀死安吉拉•默克尔——不。”
Social media immediately began to throb with the news, and articles about the protesting model proliferated immediately — though none seemed especially clear on what Jera’s message about Ms. Merkel, the German chancellor, was supposed to convey.
社交媒体迅速为这个消息而轰动，关于这个发起抗议的模特的文章铺天盖地——但是似乎没有人清楚吉瑞关于德国总理默克尔女士的这条消息到底想表达什么意思。
Mr. Owens, who in the past has referred to Jera as his muse, wasn’t sure, either, but made it plain that he was not aware of the model’s plans and did not in any way approve of his actions.
欧文斯曾说吉瑞是自己的缪斯，这一次，他也不知道吉瑞是什么意思，但他澄清，自己不知道吉瑞的计划，也绝不赞同他的行为。
“This was an independent statement,” read a statement issued by his public relations firm shortly after the show, “and does not reflect the opinion of the house of Rick Owens.”
“这是与品牌无关的宣言，”走秀不久后，欧文斯的公关公司发表声明，“完全不代表里克•欧文斯时装屋的看法。”
Speaking backstage to a reporter from Women’s Wear Daily, Mr. Owens put it more bluntly: “It’s a crazy, rogue model that I punched when he came back out,” he said, adding an unpublishable third descriptor. “Please say that I punched him.”
欧文斯在后台接受了《女装日报》(Women’s Wear Daily)记者的采访，他直率地说：“就是一个疯狂的模特在捣乱，他下来的时候我给了他一拳，”他还补了一句不太适合刊出的话。“你一定要写我打了他。”
Reached by phone Thursday night, Mr. Owens had grown more reflective.
星期四晚上，欧文斯在接受电话采访的时候显得深思熟虑了一些。
Though he had initially been angry, he said, “Afterwards I thought, ‘I kind of created this.’ Maybe I’ve created an environment where provocation is endorsed or maybe even encouraged. Maybe he saw it as ‘In Rick’s world, anything goes.’ ”
他说，尽管自己一开始很生气，“后来我想，‘这局面也是我造成的。’我可能是创造出一种允许挑衅的气氛，甚至有点鼓励挑衅。也许这让他觉得‘在里克·欧文斯这儿干什么都行’。”
In fact, Mr. Owens added, he had intended the show to be a comment on determination and the danger of such determination tipping into aggression, specifically male aggression. Jera’s gesture, and the designer’s response, ironically dovetailed with just that.
事实上，欧文斯还说，他希望这场走秀对攻击性倾向，特别是男性的攻击性倾向，乃至这种倾向的危险性发表意见。而吉瑞的做法乃至欧文斯本人的回应正好吻合了这个主题，虽说有些讽刺意味。
Mr. Owens is a fearless showman, and his shows have often bordered on performance art.
欧文斯是个无所畏惧的公众人物，他的走秀通常打些行为艺术的擦边球。
In 2013, he cast American collegiate step dancers to stomp their way through a widely heralded women’s show. Last season’s men’s show, in a gesture meant to question the idea of bodily shame, featured several models on the runway in outfits that exposed their genitals. Jera was one of these.
2013年，他请来美国大学的踢踏舞演员，在一场广泛受到宣传的女装走秀上跳踢踏舞。在上一季他的男装秀上，有几个模特身穿暴露生殖器的服装走秀，挑战对身体某些部位感到羞耻的观念。吉瑞也在其列。
The model has worked with Mr. Owens for more than 10 years. He has appeared in many of the designer’s runway shows, and there are several pictures of him on the designer’s Tumblr, including one of Mr. Owens shaving his eyebrows. The earliest dates from 2004. As recently as a few months ago, Mr. Owens photographed Jera nude with a live horse for the magazine Neue Journal.
吉瑞为欧文斯工作已经有十几年，参加过许多欧文斯的走秀，欧文斯的Tumblr账号上也有一些他的照片，有一张是欧文斯帮他修眉毛。两人最早的合作可以追溯到2004年。几个月前，欧文斯还为《Neue Journal》杂志拍过吉瑞裸体骑马的照片，
Jera was discovered 12 years ago on the streets of Cologne, Germany, by Eva Gödel, the owner and founder of the Cologne-based modeling agency Tomorrow Is Another Day. But he is not on the main roster of the agency, working by special booking for only Mr. Owens, who counts him as something of a house favorite.
12年前，科隆模特经纪公司“明天又是新的一天”(Tomorrow Is Another Day)的老板兼创始人爱娃•哥德尔(Eva Gödel)在德国科隆的街头发现了吉瑞。但他并不是公司主要花名册上的成员，而是只接受欧文斯的特别聘请，欧文斯视他为品牌最青睐的模特。
“He’ll never work again,” said Ms. Gödel, speaking by phone Thursday afternoon. “He’s out of the agency. I’d never expect him to do something like that. No one expected it. I never thought he’d be so disrespectful.”
“他再也不会工作了，”哥德尔女士在周四下午接受了电话采访。“他不再是我们公司的一员。我从没想到他会做出这种事。没人能想到。我从没想过他会这样失礼。”
She declined to give Jera’s full name or make him available for comment, but added in a follow-up email: “I always said that I can not take any responsibility for Jera if they [would] like to book him, because he is crazy and unreliable. It was always a pain to get him to Rick’s bookings in time.”
她拒绝透露吉瑞的全名，也拒绝让他接受采访，但她在一封后续电子邮件中补充道：“我说过，如果有人愿意雇用吉瑞，我无法为他负责，因为他疯狂、无法信任。让他准时参加里克预订的活动非常吃力。”
Those who knew Jera from Mr. Owens’s studio recalled him as a loose cannon.
在欧文斯的工作室，认识吉瑞的人都觉得他是个无法无天、难以控制的人。
“In all honesty, I feel like it’s something that we’ve slightly expected from this particular character, or I have, anyway,” said Angus Munro, the co-founder of AM Casting, who is Mr. Owens’s casting director.
“诚实地说，我觉得我们其实有点期待这个特别的人物做出这种事来，起码我是这样，”“AM选角”(AM Casting)公司的联合创始人安格斯•芒罗(Angus Munro)说，他也负责为欧文斯挑选模特。
When Jera returned from the runway, Mr. Young and the backstage security guards told him he had to leave immediately, and he did not return for the finale.
当天吉瑞从秀台下去后，一位姓杨的先生和后台保安让他马上离开，他也没有参加最后谢幕。
“He is a kook,” Mr. Owens said, “and I love a kook.” But he also said that at the moment Jera unfurled the banner, he wondered whether “this is my Valerie Solanas” — referring to the crazed hanger-on who shot Andy Warhol.
“他是个怪人，”欧文斯说，“我喜欢怪人。”但他也说，吉瑞展开横幅那一刹那，他忍不住想“这该不会是我的瓦莱丽•索拉纳斯(Valerie Solanas)吧”——瓦莱丽•索拉纳斯就是那个枪击安迪•沃霍尔(Andy Warhol)的食客。
And though Mr. Owens said that he and the model had “great warmth for each other,” Jera’s English is spotty and Mr. Owens’s German nonexistent. So even after more than a decade, Mr. Owens said, “our conversations have been pretty vague.”
欧文斯说，他和吉瑞“彼此非常友善”，但是吉瑞说英语结结巴巴，欧文斯也不会说德语。所以尽管两人合作了十几年，欧文斯说，“我们之间的对话其实非常含糊。”
But he did recall an odd moment from Jera’s fitting earlier this week. According to Mr. Owens, the model produced three cards and asked him to choose between them: “Kill Angela Merkel,” “Kill Angela Merkel — Not” and “Kill the Last Unicorn.”
但他回忆起这个星期的早些时候，吉瑞试衣时确实有些奇怪。欧文斯说，吉瑞拿来三张卡片让他选，上面分别写着：“杀死安吉拉•默克尔”、“杀死安吉拉•默克尔——不”、“杀死最后一只独角兽。”
“I thought it was just a little game, a wordplay thing he was doing for the moment,” Mr. Owens said. He chose “Kill the Last Unicorn”; his wife, Michele Lamy, chose none of them, saying, “I don’t like any killing at all.”
“我觉得这是个小游戏，是他一时兴起的文字游戏之类的，”欧文斯说。他选了“杀死最后一只独角兽”；他的妻子米歇尔•雷米(Michele Lamy)没选，说“我不想杀死任何东西。”
“I guess he figured I endorsed it from that,” Mr. Owens said. “I didn’t know it was going to come back to haunt me.”
“我觉得他可能认为我这么做就代表同意了他的做法，”欧文斯说。“我不知道这还会再回来烦我。”
After the model’s stunt, Mr. Owens said he would likely not work with Jera again.
欧文斯说，吉瑞搞出这件事以后，自己不愿再同他合作了。
Asked whether Jera would be barred from future shows, Mr. Munro said, “I think you would be safe to say that, yes.”
被问到吉瑞是否会被禁止出席未来的走秀，“AM选角”公司的芒罗说，“肯定地说，是的。”
