With a name like Leaf Greener (a literal translation of her Chinese name, Ye Zi) and clothing that ranges from a yolk-yellow Rosie Assoulin pantsuit at noon to a lacy Givenchy evening gown after dark, surely you can make an impression during New York Fashion Week.
名字叫Leaf Greener(中文名“叶子”的字面翻译),中午穿蛋黄色Rosie Assoulin裤套装,晚上穿纪梵希(Givenchy)晚装——这些肯定会在纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week)期间给人留下深刻印象。
And that’s exactly what the Beijing-raised, Shanghai-based Ms. Greener had in mind.
这正是在北京长大、在上海居住的叶子想要的。
Ms. Greener left Elle China last October after more than six years as senior fashion editor to strike out on her own as a stylist and fashion consultant. She kicked off New York Fashion Week last Wednesday by hobnobbing with some of fashion’s and beauty’s elite at an intimate cocktail party at the Fifth Avenue penthouse of Leonard Lauder. (She is currently featured in an Estée Lauder campaign in the Asia-Pacific region.)
去年10月,在《Elle》中国版担任高级时尚编辑六年多之后,叶子离开那里,开始自己做造型师和时尚顾问。上周三,在纽约时装周开幕前晚,在伦纳德·劳德(Leonard Lauder)第五大道顶层公寓的一个私密鸡尾酒会上,叶子与时尚界和模特界的一些精英人物亲密交谈(目前,她在雅诗兰黛[Estée Lauder]亚太区的广告宣传中担任重要角色)。
By Friday, she had partied until 6 a.m. the night before, she confessed, but was doggedly doing the rounds of the young designers’ shows. “That’s what I care about most when I’m in New York, the new designers,” she said, looking inexplicably collected in her yellow suit despite the sweltering heat at Ms. Assoulin’s outdoor presentation. “They don’t call it Old York,” Ms. Greener added, laughing hard.
周五,她承认自己前晚在派对上一直玩到早上6点,但她还是坚持去观看年轻设计师们的时装秀。“我在纽约最关心的就是新设计师,”她说。尽管Rosie Assoulin的时装秀是在户外举行,天气闷热,叶子还是穿着黄色套装,看起来有一种无法言喻的泰然自若。“因为这里是纽约,不是旧约,”叶子大笑着补充道。
She whipped out her iPhone, housed in a case bought in Hong Kong that looked like a slice of cake, to take a video of the presentation for her Instagram account. She has nearly 100,000 followers on Instagram, even though it is banned in China, she pointed out, plus an even more devoted following on Chinese channels like WeChat and Weibo. “Everyone is on there or is moving to there,” Ms. Greener said, referring to WeChat. She publishes a mobile-only magazine on the platform.
她掏出iPhone——手机壳是在香港买的,看起来像一块蛋糕——为自己的Instagram账户拍摄了一段时装秀的视频。她在Instagram上有将近10万名粉丝,虽然该网站在中国遭到屏蔽。她指出,在微信和微博等中国社交媒体上,她有更多铁杆粉丝。“每个人都用微信,或者说越来越多的人开始用微信,”叶子说。她在微信上做一本仅供手机阅读的杂志。
Her fashion influence in China is such that brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Lanvin have come calling (Ms. Greener consults or styles for them) and emerging brands vie for her attention. Ms. Assoulin, for one, greeted Ms. Greener enthusiastically, yelling out, “Leafie!”
她在中国的时尚影响力如此之大,香奈儿(Chanel)、路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和浪凡(Lanvin)等品牌已经主动跟她联系(叶子担任这些品牌的顾问或造型师),越来越多的品牌在争夺她的关注。比如,罗茜·阿苏利纳(Rosie Assoulin)女士就热情地大声招呼她:“叶子!”
She’s also featured in the Business of Fashion’s listing for people shaping the fashion industry.
她还入选Business of Fashion网站的时尚界最具影响力人物榜单。
“Fashion in China is changing,” Ms. Greener said between social media photos. “Before, it was all about logos and labels. It’s very similar to Russia in that way. You know, the communist country thing. But now people are interested in local young designers, and that’s an amazing thing. There are more contemporary fashion labels available now for the middle class.”
“中国的时尚在变化,”在为社交媒体拍摄照片的间歇,叶子说道,“以前,人么只关心品牌。在那一方面,很像俄罗斯。你知道,共产主义国家都那样。但是现在,人们对当地年轻设计师也很有兴趣,这真是让人振奋。现在有更多当代时装品牌可供中产阶级选择。”
Compared to New Yorkers, she said, Chinese women are more willing to take fashion risks and perhaps to go for a full head-to-toe look, but they’re not as different as some in fashion may think.
她说,与纽约人相比,中国女人更愿意在时装上冒险,也许会来一个从头到脚的全面造型,但是她们并不像时尚界的某些人以为的那么与众不同。
“In Beijing, women will wear a lot of color and there’s more bling — it’s like L.A.,” Ms. Greener said. “In Shanghai, they like black or less obvious colors. They care about trends, and it’s more sophisticated like New York. Actually Beijing and Shanghai hate each other, so it really is like L.A. and New York. It’s good that I have a bit of both.”
“北京女人会穿各种颜色的服装,更加耀眼,就像洛杉矶女人,”叶子说,“而上海女人喜欢黑色或不太张扬的颜色。她们更关心潮流,更精致,就像纽约女人。实际上,北京和上海相互鄙视,所以真的很像洛杉矶和纽约。好在我两者兼具。”