When JaeHee Cho first auditioned for the executive chef job with the Philadelphia 76ers, he was going to wow the brass. He composed a menu titled "Chicken & Egg." He'd take four or five chickens and showcase every part of the bird — use the bones to make a broth of incomparable depth, confit the legs and craft an elevated salad from the meat, concoct an East African-style stew by braising the thighs in a berbere spice, and even bake chawanmushi, a Japanese egg custard tart, three ways.
当JaeHee Cho首次面试费城76人队的行政主厨这一职位时,他打算惊艳到面试官。他创作了名为“鸡和蛋”的菜单。他使用了四到五只鸡,将鸡的每一个部位(的做法)都展示出来——鸡骨拿来熬制高汤,用鸡腿肉精心制作了鸡肉沙拉,用柏柏尔(一种特殊的香料)做成具有东非口味的蒸炖鸡腿,甚至还做了日式蒸蛋,一种日本的奶油蛋挞,一种食材,三种做法。
Sixers president of basketball operations Bryan Colangelo received the suggested menu over email and winced. He appreciated Cho's ambition, but this might be a little bit too ... chefy.
当76人的篮球运营总裁布莱恩-科朗吉罗收到这封菜单的邮件时,他皱了皱眉(觉得不行)。他很欣赏Cho的决心,但那可能有一点太厨师气了。
"I was looking to show off a skill set, and how I could use creatively every part of a chicken," Cho says. "but they were like, 'Can you make a good pancake?'"
“我想展示我的所有厨艺技能,展示我是怎样创造性地使用鸡身上的每一个部位。”Cho说道,“但是他们好像只在意‘你能做一份美味的煎饼吗?’诸如此类。”
The Sixers countered by suggesting a meal that would start with basic breakfast items, then move toward crowd-pleasing lunch and dinner fare. Cho would also need to pay attention to the nutritional composition of the dishes because he'd ultimately be feeding world-class athletes.
76人队相关管理层建议Cho先从基本的早餐类型做起,再考虑着手做比较大众的午餐和晚餐的菜品。Cho也需要注重菜品的营养组成状况,因为最终他要服务的是世界级别的运动员。
Inside a friend's brick-walled restaurant a couple of blocks off the Italian Market, Cho started Colangelo and a few other Sixers execs at around 1 p.m. with omelets featuring fresh produce, then brought out three kinds of pancakes: one from his own sourdough culture mix, another made with flaxseed milk, and a more traditional pancake made with buttermilk sourced from a local dairy.
下午一点左右,在朋友的一间距意大利市场几个街区远的一家砖墙餐式的餐厅里,Cho向科朗吉罗和其他几位76人高管展示了自己最新制作的特色煎饼。他制作了三种煎饼:一种是自己独家调制的配方,另一种用亚麻籽牛奶制作而成,最后一种采用了当地农场的奶油作为原料,是比较传统的煎饼。
Over the next two hours, the plates kept coming. Beef fajitas were followed by grilled salmon skewers served with couscous. When the meal was over, Colangelo and company could barely move. Pending a background check, Cho would become the executive chef of the NBA's most comprehensive, sophisticated and well-equipped food program.
在接下来的两个小时,菜肴不断被端上来。牛肉铁板烧上过,紧接着是烤三文鱼串伴有蒸粗麦粉。当这顿饭吃完,科朗吉罗和他的同伴撑得几乎不能走路。通过背景调查后,Cho正式成为76人的行政主厨,他也有望成为NBA最全面、最精细和最完善的食品项目主厨。
The Sixers have put food at the center of the team's daily existence. Situated on the second floor of the Sixers' training facility in Camden, New Jersey, the team's enormous, light-filled dining room and professional-grade kitchen with a view of the Philadelphia skyline function not only as a fueling station where players receive nourishment, but also a hub for the communal life of the team.
76人已经把食品工作放在球队日常实务工作的中心地位。在新泽西州肯顿这所城市,76人有一个宽敞而且采光性很好的餐厅和一个专业级厨房,坐落在76人训练馆二楼。在这里视野非常开阔,费城这所城市的景色也可一览无遗。这个地方已经不仅仅是球员们获得营养的“加油站”,也成了这支球队日常生活的集中地。
"It's always good to break bread with people, with your teammates," says Sixers wing Justin Anderson. "I've learned as much from my teammates in here or on the road at dinner or inviting them over. Food has been a great way over my career to get to know my teammates."
“能和别人,还是你的队友在这里一起吃点面包,这感觉总是很好的,”76人的侧翼球员贾斯汀-安德森这样说道。“不论是在这里还是在客场,亦或是邀请他们,每次共进晚餐,我都从我的队友身上学到了很多。在我的整个职业生涯中,食物一直都是我了解队友的很棒的途径。”
The meals prepared by Cho, 34, and his team on game days power the Sixers. These athletes rely on Cho to deliver the goods specified in their individual nutrition programs, to make food that will sit well and will make them feel good, and to be discreet about their habits. It's an enormous investment of trust from players and from a franchise that has developed a taste for championship contention.
在比赛日,34岁的Cho和他的团队为球队准备好饭菜,来为他们提供能量。这些运动员还依赖Cho传递给他们个人营养计划中的规定需求,兼顾他们各自的饮食习惯,让食物保证口感的同时也能使他们感觉到身体机能良好。这是一笔对信任的巨大投资,这种信任来自球员和管理层,这也让76人开始走上冠军争夺行列。
Sixers shooting guard J.J. Redick calls Cho's operation, "a top-10 Philadelphia restaurant." Over four days in February, we embedded ourselves inside that establishment.
76人的得分后卫J.J.雷迪克称Cho的手艺,“费城所有餐厅前十名的水准。二月刚过去四天,我们就深深地陷入在Cho的菜品中不能自拔。”
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