It came via Spain but Beatrice decreed that
这种发式从西班牙传过来,贝阿特丽丝规定
the princesses as I'm calling them would wear this.
我所称的那些公主要做这种发式
Anyway it's bound very tightly
总之,它绑得很紧
and then it's bound more loosely with a spiral ribbon,
然后用一根发带松松地绑成螺旋状
and hair sort of bulges out between bits of the ribbon
发带间的头发就会突出来
but very beautifully which was typical of Leonardo's touch
但非常漂亮,这是典型的达芬奇画法
which Ambrogio De Predis doesn't do.
Ambrogio De Predis也会画成这样
His coatzoni on the Beatrice just goes down like a tube.
但他给贝阿特丽丝·德埃斯特画的发垂就像一根管子直直垂下来
Its well enough and it's his sign of coatzoni
这个画得很漂亮,是他特有的发垂
but there's no sense of the inner structure of it.
但我们看不出里面是怎么绑的
But that shows that
但这表明了
it's one of these very tightly grouped inner circle of sitter's.
画中人是这群关系密切的核心集团中的一员
And you can begin by a process of elimination to take out
你可以先从排除法开始
who it might not be at least amongst the ones
排除那些至少不是
who would be portrayed in that way.
会被画成这样的人
Interviewer: I think the comparison with the Beatrice portrait
我觉得比较贝阿特丽丝的肖象
is interesting.
很有趣
One of the things that is striking about the difference
其中一个惊人的不同之处就是
I think is that Beatrice has all her fine jewellery
贝阿特丽丝戴着精美的珠宝
and very expensive ornaments.
非常贵重的装饰物
And in the Prince Prese she doesn't.
但肖像中的公主却没有
Is that potentially because it's commemorative
是因为这幅画是用来纪念的
rather than painted for a marriage,does that support that?
而不是用来征婚的吗,这个说法成不成立?
Yeah,well one of the puzzling things
其中一个令人困惑的地方是
the costume has got the kind of knot designs
服装有那种打结设计
which we know is associated with Leonardo so that's fine.
我们知道这是达芬奇的特色,所以这个没问题
One of the more puzzling things,
但更令人困惑的是
in fact almost the only puzzling thing about it for me
事实上唯一一个令我困惑的是
is the fact that she doesn't have pearls.
她没有戴珍珠
Ludovico in the court delighted in pearls.
Ludovico喜欢珍珠
Ludovico Ilmoro,the duke of Milan Ludovico
即米兰公爵
had probably the best collection of pearls of anyone,
他收藏了最漂亮的珍珠
it was almost a fetish
他对珍珠几乎到了痴迷的地步
and he used to give away pearl necklaces to wife
他经常会送珍珠给妻子
and to niece and so on.
和他侄女等等
And she's not got one.
但她没有
But as I began to eliminate possibilities for who this was,
但当我开始排除画中人不可能的人选时
I lighted on one potential sitter.
我注意到一个很有可能是画中人的人
And this was Bianca Sforza.
她就是Bianca Sforza
Not to be confused with Bianca Maria who was Ludovico's niece
别把她和Bianca Maria弄混了,后者是Ludovico的侄女
and married Maximillium the Holy Roman Emperor.
嫁给了神圣罗马帝国皇帝的Maximillium
His court name's rather painful
他的宫廷称谓非常难读
because a limited number of names are used in each generation.
因为每一代只有有限的几个名字可以用
Anyway Ludovico had an illegitimate child,
总之Ludovico有一个私生女
we don't know when she was born
我们不知道她什么时候出生
but we can more or less work it out,called Bianca.
但我们可以猜到大概是什么时候,她叫Bianca
He went to enormous trouble to legitimise her.
他费了很大力气才确立她的合法地位
And at the age of 13,maybe 14 but probably 13,
13岁的时候,也许是14岁,但更可能是13岁时
she was married to the commander of Ludovico's forces,
她嫁给了Ludovico军队的司令
who was an aristocrat called Galeazzo Sanseverino.
一个叫Galeazzo Sanseverino的上流贵族
And within four months she was dead.
四个月后她就死了
It was recorded that
据记载
the doctors said she had a pasioni delstomarco,
医生说她肚子有毛病
some kind of ectopic pregnancy.
应该是一种宫外孕
She was expected to produce children straight away
她马上就要产子
and it may have been too much for her
但她身体吃不消
as a 13 year old child bearing at that point.
她那时才13岁就要怀孕了
Anyway she dies within four months and if you think about it
总之她四个月后就死了,细想一下
this is a portrait of a very young woman
画中人是一个很年轻的女人
just on the edge of maturity at the age
刚刚开始成熟,这个年纪的女人
when these women tended to be married.
通常都是已经嫁人的了
It was a life of luxury but also enforced,not enslavement
这种生活荣华富贵,但也是被强迫的,虽然没有被奴役
but certainly a very circumscribed social and reproductive role.
但肯定是在社交方面受到限制的一个生殖工具这样的角色