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一名记者尝试了TikTok推荐的各家餐厅(上)

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I Let TikTok Tell Me Where to Eat. Here’s What I Learned.

我让TikTok告诉我去哪里吃饭。以下是我了解到的内容。

TikTok is many things: a place for slime videos, a free therapy session, the leading source of information in America right now, and, for some, the ultimate restaurant resource.

TikTok身兼数职:它是一个观看史莱姆视频的地方,是免费的疗愈课程,是目前美国最前沿的信息来源,而且对一些人来说,还是一个终极餐厅资源库。

With a properly tuned algorithm, TikTok can become a never-ending scroll of rhythmic recommendations from critics of varying reliability, many of whom have been paid by restaurants for their P.R.-approved opinions.

TikTok采用了经过适当调整优化的算法,可以有节奏地提供划不到底的内容推荐,提供这些推荐的评论者有的可靠,有的不可靠,其中许多人写的推文得到了餐厅公关的批准,而且可以从中拿钱。

How trustworthy are their suggestions, really?

他们的建议到底有多可信?

And what can a diner expect from these spots, when videos have promised them perfect vibes, hot singles and even religious enlightenment?

当短视频承诺这些餐厅可以让食客获得完美的氛围、性感的单身汉,甚至宗教开悟时,食客们能抱有什么期待?

To find out, I spent hours on TikTok, going down a digital rabbit hole of restaurant videos, then dined for a week at the whim of my For You Page.

为了找出答案,我花了几个小时刷TikTok,跳进了餐厅视频的数字兔子洞,然后从我的主页推荐中随意去不同餐厅吃了一个星期。

1. ‘New York’s hottest new restaurant’: Meduza Mediterrania.

1. “纽约最火的新餐厅”:美杜莎地中海餐厅。

Thistle Swann and Jacob Cummings, who met on Hinge, put their faith in the internet once more to choose their anniversary dinner locale.

希瑟·斯旺和雅各布·卡明斯是在约会软件Hinge上认识的,他们在选择周年纪念晚餐地点时决定再次相信互联网。

“I just looked up ‘fancy restaurants’ on TikTok,” Mr. Cummings said.

“我直接在TikTok上搜索‘时髦餐厅’,”卡明斯说,

“I don’t know anything about fancy culture, but I could tell by looking at the place that it was dummy fancy.”

“我对时髦文化一无所知,但我看了那个地方就知道那个餐厅时髦得不得了。”

That’s how the couple, both 25, found themselves below a huge fake tree sprouting from the middle of the dining room at Meduza Mediterrania, a clubstaurant in the Meatpacking district with a strict dress code (no sweatpants, shorts or jerseys) and a pricey raw bar.

于是这对同为25岁的情侣就坐在了一棵巨大的假树下,这棵假树从美杜莎地中海餐厅的中央耸立而出,这家餐厅是位于米特帕金区的一个俱乐部餐厅,有严格的着装要求(不能穿运动裤、短裤或运动衫)和价格昂贵的海鲜吧。(注:俱乐部餐厅即不仅提供餐食,更提供其他娱乐活动的餐厅。)

Meduza’s website calls it “a dining experience that takes you on a journey to a world of sunlit coasts, sparkling waters and vibrant culture.”

美杜莎网站称“在这里就餐可以带你感受到阳光灿烂的海岸、波光粼粼的海面和充满活力的文化”。

I didn’t find any geographic marvels, but I was surprised to find the food (shiso tzatziki, lamb chops with chimichurri, wagyu kafta) terrific.

我没有在餐厅发现任何地理奇观,但我惊讶地发现那里的食物(紫苏奶酱、奇米丘里辣酱羊排、和牛肉丸)超级赞。

The couple agreed, though admittedly, they never go out for nice dinners — Mr. Cummings is unemployed, and Ms. Swann teaches ceramics and caters.

两人也认为食物很好,但他们也承认自己从未去餐馆吃过美味的晚餐--卡明斯失业了,斯旺教陶艺,也做宴会餐饮工作。

“But,” Mr. Cummings said at the end of the meal, “I’m gonna be honest, it was not $800 delicious.”

“但是,”卡明斯在用餐结束时说,“老实说,没有好吃到值800美元。”

2. ‘Literally a religious experience’: Quality Bistro.

2. “简直是真正的宗教体验”:优质小酒馆。

“Your life will be forever changed,” said Rebecca Schneider, who posts as @boujeebitesonly, about a (comped) dinner at Quality Bistro — specifically, the tableside butter service.

“你的人生将永远改变。”丽贝卡·施耐德用优惠券在优质小酒馆吃了免费晚餐后说,她的TikTok账号是boujeebitesonly,她特别提到了桌边黄油服务。

Here’s how the profound event begins: A server carts over a bucket with a half-foot mound of butter emerging from it.

这个意义重大的服务是这样开始的:服务员提着一个大桶,里面盛着半英尺高、堆得冒出桶沿的黄油堆。

With a wooden spatula, they scoop out a baseball-size blob of butter, smear it onto a marble plate and top it with pimente d’espelette, minced shallots and salt.

服务员用木铲挖出一块棒球大小的黄油,涂在大理石盘子上,然后在上面放上埃斯佩莱特辣椒、葱末和盐。

For $38, the butter plate comes with oiled toast, radishes and a bouquet of their leaves, cornichons, two dips, a cold leek dish and slices of ham folded like linen napkins.

一盘黄油的价格是38美元,附带油煎吐司、萝卜和一束萝卜叶子、腌黄瓜、两份蘸酱、韭葱凉菜和叠得像亚麻餐巾一样的火腿片。

The restaurant group Quality Branded had success with an influencer marketing campaign at Bad Roman in Columbus Circle, and the approach seems to be working at Quality Bistro, too.

餐饮集团“优质品牌”在哥伦布环岛的坏罗马人餐厅进行了网红营销活动并取得了成功,这种方法似乎在优质小酒馆也奏效了。

On a recent Friday night, a woman from Kansas City was celebrating her 30th birthday at the restaurant, after seeing it in a video.

最近的一个周五晚上,一名来自堪萨斯城的女子在一个视频中看到了这家餐厅后,来这里庆祝了自己的30岁生日。

I wouldn’t say I found God at Quality Bistro, but more disappointingly, I didn’t find a husband.

我不会说我在优质小酒馆找到了上帝,但更令人失望的是,我没有找到老公。

After seeing a number of videos mention the hunky clientele — Ariana Nathani (@ariana.Nathani) said “everybody here was a finance daddy,” and Tiff Baira (@tiffbaira) called it “the best NYC restaurant to meet eligible bachelors” — I found only groups of millennial women drinking espresso martinis and families celebrating birthdays, sparklers in their desserts.

我看到很多视频都说来这里吃饭的客人高大英俊--爱丽亚娜·那桑尼(@ariana.Nathani)说“这里的所有人都是金融精英男”,蒂芙·贝拉(@tiffbaira)说这里“是最能遇到黄金单身汉的纽约餐厅”--但我只看到一群群喝浓缩咖啡马提尼的千禧一代女性和庆祝生日的家庭,他们的甜品上还插着烟花棒。

重点单词   查看全部解释    
spatula ['spætjulə]

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n. 铲(尤指烹饪用铲),压舌片,抹刀

联想记忆
emerging [i'mə:dʒ]

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vi. 浮现,(由某种状态)脱出,(事实)显现出来

 
bucket ['bʌkit]

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n. 水桶
vt. 装在桶里
vi.

 
approach [ə'prəutʃ]

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n. 接近; 途径,方法
v. 靠近,接近,动

联想记忆
whim [wim]

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n. 一时的兴致,突然的念头;奇想,幻想

联想记忆
quality ['kwɔliti]

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n. 品质,特质,才能
adj. 高品质的

 
profound [prə'faund]

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adj. 深奥的,深邃的,意义深远的

联想记忆
reliability [ri.laiə'biliti]

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n. 可靠性

 
strict [strikt]

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adj. 严格的,精确的,完全的

 
lamb [læm]

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n. 羔羊,小羊,羔羊肉,温顺的人
v. 产羊

 

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