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How America Became the Capital of Great Pizza
美国如何成为美味披萨之都
Marisol Doyle wasn’t bothered by the frozen dough and canned mushrooms common in the pizzas she ate as a kid growing up in Sonora, Mexico. It was comfort food.
玛丽索尔·道尔从小在墨西哥索诺拉长大，小时候吃的披萨很多都是用冷冻面团和蘑菇罐头做的，但她并不在意。披萨是一种安慰性食物。
“But as an adult,” she said, “I wanted something better.” Ms. Doyle’s first experience with better pizza came in 2006 at Pizzeria Bianco, in Phoenix, and it was probably a lot like yours.
“但作为成年人，”她说，“我想要更好的东西。”道尔第一次吃到更好的披萨是2006年在凤凰城的比安科披萨店，她的经历可能和你的很像。
Mozzarella that melts into pools. Crust that invites comparisons to fresh bakery bread. These are qualities found in the Neapolitan-style pies served at the wood-fire-oven pizzerias that are now fixtures of urban America.
马苏里拉奶酪融化成一个个小水洼。面饼让人禁不住把它与新鲜烘烤的面包相媲美。用烧柴烤炉的披萨店提供的那不勒斯风味披萨都有这样的品质，这些披萨店现在是美国城市的固定建筑。
In recent years, they’ve become fixtures outside cities, too, drawing diners to the types of small communities — from southern Illinois and coastal New England to rural Wisconsin and Oregon — whose restaurant cultures are often dominated by national chains.
近年来，它们也成为了城市以外的固定设施，将食客吸引到了小型社区--从伊利诺伊州南部和新英格兰沿海，到威斯康星州和俄勒冈州的乡村--这些社区的餐厅文化往往由全国连锁店主导。
All those fussed-over pies, with their blistered crusts, basil sprigs and hot honey drizzles, taught Americans they could ask more from a dish routinely eaten from a cardboard box — and consumed by about one in eight people on any given day, according to U.S. Department of Agriculture research.
所有这些精心制作的披萨 -- 面饼烤到起泡、放上罗勒叶、淋上热蜂蜜 -- 告诉美国人，他们可以对这种就着纸盒吃的食物提出更高的要求，根据美国农业部的研究，每天大约有八分之一的美国人都会吃披萨。
That broad appeal, coupled with the relatively low cost of opening pizzerias and the ease of acquiring the information to master high-quality pizza-making, has made the dish a uniquely effective vehicle for chefs to find a voice while also making a living.
这种广泛的吸引力，再加上开披萨店的成本相对较低，以及很容易获取制作高质量披萨的信息，这使得这种食物成了一种独特、有效的工具，让厨师在谋生的同时也能表达自己的声音。
Until recently, chefs looking to make sublime Neapolitan pizzas would have few options beyond traveling to Italy, said Chris Bianco, who opened Pizzeria Bianco in 1988. “Today you just swipe and study and you can bring great pizza to any town, anyplace,” said Mr. Bianco, who is arguably the country’s most influential pizzaiolo.
克里斯·比安科于1988年开了比安科披萨店，他说，直到最近，想要做出美味的那不勒斯披萨的厨师除了去意大利之外，几乎别无选择。“现在，你只需刷一刷手机、学习一下，就可以把美味的披萨带到任何城镇、任何地方。”比安科可以说是美国最有影响力的披萨厨师。
The ensuing renaissance has done more than make pizza in the United States better than it has ever been. It has also made the country home to the world’s best pizza — or, at least, in Mr. Bianco’s estimation, “the most hyper-focused and style-diverse” collection of pizzerias.
随之而来的复兴不仅让美国的披萨变得比以往任何时候都更好吃。还让美国拥有了世界上最好吃的披萨，或者至少在比安科看来，有了“最高度专注于披萨、风格最多样化”的许多披萨店。
That includes Cleveland, Miss., where Ms. Doyle opened Lena Pizza + Bagels last year.
其中包括密西西比州克利夫兰，在那里，道尔去年开了莱尼娅披萨+贝果店。
The pizzeria is part of a rare culinary phenomenon: a restaurant trend born of big-city chef culture that doesn’t peter out at the inner suburbs. Lena resembles any number of smart urban trattorias, except that it’s located in a small-town storefront, on a street called Cotton Row.
披萨店属于一种罕见的烹饪现象：这种餐厅潮流源于大城市的厨师文化，而且没有在城市近郊逐渐消失。莱尼娅和所有时髦的城市小餐厅类似，只不过它的店面位于一个小镇，在一条叫“棉花路”的街上。
Lena’s spiritual kin includes an astonishingly diverse array of restaurants in all corners of the country, including Pizzeria Sei, the Tokyo-influenced, neo-Neapolitan pizzeria in Los Angeles; Short & Main, a pizzeria-oyster bar in Gloucester, Mass.; Yellow, a Levantine bakery-pizzeria in Washington, D.C.; and Lincoln Wine Bar in Mount Vernon, Iowa.
莱尼娅的精神亲属包括美国各个角落的各式各样的餐厅，其多样性令人惊讶，其中包括位于洛杉矶、受东京影响的新式那不勒斯“圣披萨店”，位于马萨诸塞州格洛斯特的披萨和牡蛎店“肖特和麦因”，位于华盛顿特区的黎凡特面包和披萨店“黄色”，以及位于爱荷华州芒特弗农的“林肯葡萄酒吧”。
While the character and food of these restaurants vary widely, nearly all feature a cross-cultural blend of dishes whose common denominator is a supple, flavorful crust.
虽然这些餐厅的风格和食物差异很大，但几乎所有餐厅都以跨文化、融合各种风味的菜肴为特色，这些菜肴的共同点是有柔软可口的面饼。
