For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.
在欧洲版10月19日旅游板块,作者与编辑精选了十二个城市的独特珍宝,下面,我们从布鲁塞尔的巧克力、佛罗伦萨的丝绸到哥本哈根的设计,逐一欣赏吧。
London: Hats
伦敦的帽子
“Americans are not always sure what to do with hats,” said Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who was seated in the second-floor showroom of her millinery at 18 Crown Passage. This tiny lane is one of the oldest pedestrian streets in central London, complete with gas lamps — a suitable setting for one of the oldest industries in England.
“美国人不太明白应该怎么戴帽子。”瑞秋·特莱福-摩根(Rachel Trevor-Morgan)说,她坐在自己位于伦敦皇冠大道18号的女帽店二层的展览室里。这条小街是伦敦市中心最古老的步行街之一,街边的煤气灯为英格兰最古老的这一行业构成了恰到好处的背景。
Ms. Trevor-Morgan was surrounded by hats of all shapes (wide-brimmed, pillbox, beret, fascinators), in materials like silk taffeta, wool houndstooth, velour felt, straw and lace. Embellishments included peacock or spiky feathers, silk flowers or sheer veils, bows or curls.
特莱福-摩根女士身边围绕着形形色色的帽子(宽檐帽、小圆帽、贝雷帽、羽毛头饰等),材料包括塔夫绸、犬牙织纹羊毛、丝绒、草和蕾丝。饰物有孔雀尾羽或其他长羽毛、绢花或者面纱、蝴蝶结或卷发。
“The point is to feel beautiful, not silly,” said Ms. Trevor-Morgan, who has designed some 65 hats for Queen Elizabeth over the last decade and creates bespoke hats for all occasions. She recommends clients make a one-hour appointment and bring along the outfit for a particular event so she can match the color. (Prices generally are 200 to 2,000 pounds, or about $313 to $3,135, at $1.57 to the pound.)
“关键是要让人觉得漂亮,而不是傻。”特莱福-摩根女士说。过去十年中,她为伊丽莎白女王设计了65顶帽子,专门为各种重大场合而定制。她建议顾客预约一小时的面谈时间,把特定场合所穿的衣服拿来,好让她搭配颜色。(售价通常200至2000英镑;按照1英镑等于1.57美元计算,合313至3135美元。)
Just below her store is Lock & Company, which claims to be the oldest hat shop in the world. Established in 1676 and famous for topping the heads of Adm. Lord Nelson and Winston Churchill, it can be perused by men and women alike looking for everything from rain hats (£79) to a fedora (roughly £200) to a faux fur hat (on average, £200).
她的店铺下面就是洛克公司(Lock & Company),它始建于1676年,号称是全世界最古老的帽子店,因纳尔逊勋爵(Adm. Lord Nelson)和丘吉尔戴过而闻名于世,同等层次的人群也会来这里选购帽子,包括雨帽(79英镑)、费多拉男式软呢帽(大约200英镑)以及人造皮毛帽(均价200英镑)。
The designer Edwina Ibbotson, whose latest royal client is Pippa Middleton, says she can tell if a hat is right for a woman when she sees “that sparkle in her eye.”
设计师艾德维娜·依波逊(Edwina Ibbotson)的最新皇室客户是皮帕·米德尔顿(Pippa Middleton)。她说,一个女人如果戴对了帽子,你甚至可以看到“她眼里的光芒”。
Some celebrities are gravitating to the milliner Jess Collett, whose shop in the heart of the trendy Notting Hill area she likens to a “candy store.” Her clients include Thandie Newton and Kate Hudson, as well as the royal sisters Princesses Eugenie and Beatrice. Her hats have a playful, theatrical feel, from a red feather Mohawk to a swirling constellation of flowers.
有些名人青睐女帽制造品牌杰丝·柯莱特(Jess Collett),她家的店铺位于时尚中心区诺丁山。她把店铺比喻成一个糖果店,客户包括桑迪·牛顿(Thandie Newton)和凯特·哈德森(Kate Hudson)及王室姐妹花尤金妮公主和碧翠丝公主。她家的帽子有着顽皮的戏剧感,从一根红羽毛的莫霍克到旋转星群般的花冠。
“I want everyone to want to wear a hat,” Ms. Collett said. “It automatically makes you more interesting.” Or, as London’s arguably most fashionable hat maker, Philip Treacy, put it: “A hat can completely change the personality of the wearer. I like to make hats that make the heart beat faster.” JENNIFER CONLIN
“我希望人人都戴帽子。”柯莱特女士说,“戴上帽子,你顿时就迷人起来。”而伦敦最时尚的帽子制造商菲利普·特里希(Philip Treacy)说:“一顶帽子能完全改变人的性情。我喜欢制造让人心跳加速的帽子。”詹妮弗·柯林(JENNIFER CONLIN)供稿。