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BACKDROP:John McConnico for The New York TimesIt's 3 a.m. Do you know where your children (and husbands and wives) are? If they're in Hov, Norway, they may be swinging a club at Lofoten Golf Links, surrounded by ocean and snowcapped peaks.

But 90 minutes later, I was the only soul on the course. The mountains were standing out clearly in the Arctic three-quarters light, the Norwegian Sea was lapping against the rocks, sparrows and gulls were chirping and calling as if it was dawn, and just off a white sand beach less than half a mile away, a small red house stood alone in a deep green field of turf.

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