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Anyone into makeup — following Instagram beauty influencers, or just watching a bunch of YouTube tutorials
任何一个对美妆感兴趣的人——无论是关注Instagram上的美妆达人，还是只看看YouTube上一些美妆教程——
knows that Rihanna’s makeup line, Fenty Beauty, is blowing up.
都知道日日（蕾哈娜）的彩妆品牌“Fenty Beauty”现在是火得一塌糊涂。
It dropped during New York Fashion Week in September of this year,
自从该品牌今年9月在纽约时尚周一发布，
and since then the color-poppin' highlighters, matchsticks, and lip gloss have created a buzz on social media.
其抢眼的高光粉、口红、润唇膏等产品就在社交媒体上迅速蹿红。
But the most notable thing about the line is the range of foundation shades —
然而，最引人注目的是这一品牌有非常多的粉底色号
there are 40 to be exact.
具体数字是40个。
And many of the deeper shades were sold out in stores and online within days of the launch.
无论是实体店还是网店，她家的很多深色粉底都在不日之内一抢而空
Which is bananas because how often do you hear about darker shades being sold out?
简直跟疯了一样，有多少人听说过深色粉底脱销的？
For a long time, the beauty industry has neglected women of color as consumers.
一直以来，美妆行业都忽视了有色人种女性的消费需求。
But our bad gal RiRi's incredibly successful makeup line has challenged the notion
然而，我们“不务正业的”日日推出的彩妆品牌大火特火，
that the market for deeper shades isn't profitable for cosmetic companies.
可谓是打破了“对彩妆品牌来说，针对深色皮肤的化妆品市场无利可图”这一观念。
It also raised an important question:
此外，日日品牌的成功还给我们提出了一个重要的问题：
Why haven't most companies had the same kind of inclusivity or the success to go with it?
为什么大多数彩妆品牌在包容性和受欢迎程度上都不如日日的品牌呢？
Well, the interesting thing about Fenty is that it’s not the very first time that a beauty line has had expansive shades.
有趣的是，Fenty并不是第一个高端彩妆品牌。
That’s Tiffany Gill, Associate Professor of History and Black American studies at the University of Delaware.
这位是Tiffany Gill，特拉华大学“历史与美国黑人研究”的副教授
Before the Fenty Beauty line launched,
在彩妆品牌Fenty发布之前，
Make Up For Ever, another cosmetic company that caters a lot to professional makeup artists,
另一个深受专业化妆师喜爱的品牌Make Up For Ever
launched a campaign that also had a lot of skin tone inclusivity.
也推出了一系列针对各种肤色的美妆产品。
Other mainstream brands like Covergirl, Revlon, Maybelline, and L’Oreal also attempted to cater to the broader market of complexions.
封面女孩、露华浓、美宝莲、欧莱雅等主流品牌也尝试过拓宽其产品的肤色市场
But it’s quite easy to see where mainstream brands have fallen short.
然而，我们不难看出这些主流品牌的问题所在。
I went to several drugstores and a major department store and I saw a clear trend.
我去了几家药店和一个大百货商场，它们都有一个很明显的趋势
there were 50 shades of beige to choose from.
米色粉底有50个色号
This is looks really pale.
这个太白了
I'm not, I'm not that pale...I'm...
我没有，没有那么白，我……
But, the darker shades were limited to a handful of options.
但深色粉底的选择非常有限
When I tried to match my own skin with the available shades of foundation,
当我想在这些粉底色号里选一个适合我的色号时，
you can see how these few products weren’t going to work for me.
大家应该不难看出这些产品有多不适合我。
Is it really that hard to get it right?
推出些正确的色号就那么难吗？
Tasha Brown, a makeup artist based in LA, who's worked with a number of Hollywood stars, doesn’t seem to think so.
和很多好莱坞明星都有合作的洛杉矶化妆师Tasha Brown并不这么看。
As a makeup artist, it’s the same technique I would use that for anyone from Karen Elson to Alek Wek.
作为一名化妆师，无论是Karen Elsonn那样的白人，还是Alek Wek那样的黑人，我用的化妆技巧都是一样的
I first look at the undertone of the skin, then I look at the actual shade range,
首先，我会观察她们肤色的基调，实际的肤色深浅范围
and then I pick the correct texture for their skin tone.
然后我会选适合她们肤色的产品。
So, there is no extra difficulty in understanding deeper skin tones,
所以，理解深肤色并不比理解浅肤色更难。
so it's easy to find a foundation match if you know your undertone, which is your underlying skin tone on a spectrum of cool to warm.
了解了你自己肤色的基调，也就是你的肤色在从冷色调到暖色调的肤色盘上的位置，那么选择合适的粉底就不难了。
But finding deeper shades that actually offer the right undertones for women of color has been incredibly hard.
然而，找到对应深肤色女性的正确肤色基调的深色粉底无比困难。
Maybe product development is where it gets really tricky?
或许，真正棘手的是产品研发环节吧？
Yeah...actually, It’s not very difficult to make deeper shades.
呃，事实上，制作深色粉底并不很难
What?? Depending on the base, all foundations have the same basic base.
什么？就基底而言，所有的粉底用的都是同样的基底
So for example, if we’re talking about a standard foundation, which would be a water and silicone base,
就拿粉底来说，标准的粉底要么是水基，要么是硅基
it’s an emulsion where the water phase is surrounded by silicone.
硅基就是硅油含量大于水的粉底
That basic emulsion would be the same.
粉底液的基本成分都是一样的
The only difference between a lighter shade and a darker shade is the ratio of pigments.
浅色粉底和深色粉底唯一的区别就是色料含量的多少
And all foundations contain the same four pigments.
粉底用的都是这四种色料：
It's titanium dioxide, iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, and iron oxide black.
二氧化钛、氧化铁红、氧化铁黄和四氧化三铁。
So you just play with the ratios of those pigments to get to a lighter color or darker color.
不同色料的含量不同，粉底颜色的深浅也不同
The trouble with finding the right shade isn’t limited to foundation.
找不到适合的色号岂止是口红哦
Yes, it's not just foundation, you know, it is blush. it is lipstick,
没错，除了粉底，腮红和口红也有这个问题
where it’s a beautiful color, you know, but it’s a light wash.
只要有一个漂亮的色号，那肯定是浅色的
And deeper skin tones tend to demand a little more pigment.
而深色皮肤往往需要色料含量更高的色号
It's a problem that can be solved with an understanding of darker skin tones.
这个问题我们可以通过了解深色皮肤的肤色基调来解决。
But overall, in 2014, only 18% of American Chemical Society members were people of color.
然而，大体来看，2014年，美国化学协会只有18%的会员是有色人种。
In 2015, Black, Hispanic and Asian women made up 16.3% of workers in the personal care products industry.
2015年，个人护肤行业内黑人女性、拉丁美洲以及亚洲女性也只占了16.3%。
