评论
打印
When you take a look inside a fish, you can really see the difference using ike jime makes.
剖开之后，大家就会发现，用活缔这种方法杀的鱼和其他鱼是不一样的。
Both of these fish were caught earlier this day.
这两条鱼都是今天捞起来的。
One was killed using the standard method — suffocation — and one was killed using the ike jime method.
一条是用标准的杀鱼法——窒息——杀死的，另一条则是用活缔法杀死的。
When Andrew opened them up, they looked relatively the same —
把两条鱼都剖开，看上去基本都一样——
but you can see that the suffocated one is filled with a lot of blood,
但还是可以看出，窒息而死的鱼体内充满了大量的血液，
the stuff that causes quick decomposition.
而血液是会加快鱼肉的分解和腐烂的。
We did a taste test and they honestly taste pretty similar.
我们做了一个口感测试，两条鱼口感其实差不多。
It tastes fresh.
味道都很新鲜。
There's not like an overwhelming flavor to it.
没有那种让人难以承受的味道。
It’s a few days later when things start to change:
要过几天区别才会开始显现出来：
FDA guidelines recommend cooking and eating refrigerated fish within two days,
食品药品管理局（FDA）建议冰箱保存的鱼最好在两天之内烹饪和食用，
but since ike jime slows rotting immensely, the fish is good for much longer,
但因为活缔能够大幅延缓鱼肉腐烂的速度，所以这样杀的鱼保存很久口感都不会差，
which means its able to develop more complex flavors,
这也就意味着它能催生出丰富的口感，
similar to the way red meat tastes better when it’s aged.
就跟红肉放一放味道反而会更好是一个道理。
This fish was purchased whole from the grocery store, killed using the standard suffocation method.
这条鱼是从超市整条买回来然后用标准的窒息法杀死的。
It’s a couple of days old.
已经放了有两天了。
And this one was killed using the ike jime method —
这条则是用活缔法杀死的——
it’s been sitting in the fridge at 33 degrees for two whole weeks.
并且已经在33℉（约0.6℃）的冰箱里放了整整两周了。
When we opened both of them up, the suffocated one had a distinct fishy aroma.
把两条鱼都剖开，窒息死的这条已经有明显的鱼腥味儿了。
Wow, yeah, I can really smell it now.
哇，没错，我现在就能闻到味儿了。
It smells so metally, and gross.
闻起来很恶心。
Oh my god! Its insides had blood running through them, and were starting to break apart,
天呐，里面到处都是血水，肉也已经开始散架了，
providing more space for bacteria to grow.
细菌繁殖的空间就更足了。
The aged ike jime fish, on the other hand, had barely any scent.
而这条用活缔法杀死之后放了很久的鱼反而没有什么味道。
It tasted different too: This is the one I'm nervous about.
吃起来味道也不一样：这是让我很忐忑的那条。
This is the one from the store that's a couple days old.
就是从店里买的，已经放了两天的鱼。
Oh my God.
啊，天呐。
It's not great.
情况不妙。
I'll be honest with you.
我跟你们说实话。
It's a little sour.
有点酸。
OK so this is supposed to be the primo fish.
这应该就是那条最让人期待的鱼了吧。
The one that was has been aging for two weeks after being killed with the ike jime method.
这条用活缔法杀的鱼已经放了两周了。
You can tell underneath it there's just like this hint of complexity
大家可以看一下，里面只有一丢丢变质的迹象，
and once we added a bit of salt to bring that flavor out: Oh my God, that is so good.
我们放一点点盐，把那个味道激发出来：天哪，太好吃了！
I don't even know what it tastes like, but it's delicious.
我甚至都不知道该怎么形容了，但真的很好吃。
So it tastes so much better and lasts much longer,
那既然用活缔法杀的鱼味道这么好，可保存的时间也这么长，
why aren’t fish killed using the ike jime method?
那为什么不用这种方法杀鱼呢？
The answer is simple: Cost.
答案很简单：成本。
It’s almost impossible to scale ike jime on commercial ship decks and fish farms,
在捕鱼船的甲板和渔场大规模地采用活缔这种杀鱼方法几乎是不可能的，
Where it’s just cheaper and easier to default to asphyxiation.
因为在这些地方，默认的窒息法成本更低，操作起来也更简单。
For now, there is one particular market for fish killed using the ike jime method:
但就目前而言，活缔法还是有一个特定的市场：
high-end restaurants, especially ones serving sushi.
高端餐厅，尤其是会供应寿司的餐厅。
Like La Marine in France, Or Providence in LA.
比如法国的La Marine和洛杉矶的Providence。
These restaurants pay a lot of money for ike jime fish from Japan, its primary exporter.
这些餐馆会花很多钱从日本进口用活缔法杀的鱼，日本也是这些餐厅的主要进口方。
But elsewhere in the world, fishers are sitting on an untapped market.
但在世界其他地方，渔民们正坐在一个尚未开发的市场上。
If they used the ike jime method, they could sell their fish for a lot more money.
如果他们使用活缔法杀鱼，他们本来是可以赚更多的钱的。
Anyone if given the opportunity to look at two filets side by side or two fish side by side
任何人，如果有机会来区分并排放的这两种鱼肉的话，
will immediately immediately notice these distinctions suddenly,
都能一眼看出它们的区别，
it's just that that opportunity doesn't really come around very often.
只是这种机会并不经常出现而已。
I like to to think that Ike Jime is actually about intellectual integrity.
我倾向于认为活缔法是一个知识产权问题。
So the integrity of the fish, the integrity of sort of what we're really doing here, which is ultimately creating something to eat.
鱼的产权，这种杀鱼法的产权，因为说到底，我们也是在创造食物。
