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For the second swearing-in, Mrs. Trump did conform to historical norms by choosing an American designer for her hat and coat.
在第二次宣誓就职仪式上，特朗普夫人确实遵循历史规范，选择了美国设计师设计的帽子和大衣。
And not just one American designer but, for the hat, Eric Javits, a New York milliner, and, for the coat, the New York designer Adam Lippes (whose work she and Jill Biden had previously worn).
而且不止一位美国设计师，帽子是纽约女帽制造商埃里克·贾维茨设计的，大衣是纽约设计师亚当·利普斯设计的（她和吉尔·拜登此前都穿过他设计的衣服）。
Still, there was something removed and uncompromising about the style.
不过她的风格还是有些特立独行和毫不妥协的意味。
The net effect was less elevated accessibility than British royal walkabout (even if it did have the undeniable air of a governess about it).
最终效果是相比与英国王室外巡活动的着装，她的服装矜贵有余但亲民性不足（尽管确实有一种不可否认的家庭教师的氛围）。
So, too, the caped Dior coat Mrs. Trump wore to the wreath-laying ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery on Sunday afternoon, and the long Saint Laurent tuxedo cape she wore over a Dolce & Gabbana white shirt and sequined Carolina Herrera skirt to the candlelight dinner later that day, were more regal than regular (even regular black tie).
同样，周日下午，特朗普夫人在阿灵顿国家公墓敬献花圈仪式上穿的带斗篷的迪奥大衣，以及当天晚些时候，在烛光晚宴上穿的圣罗兰长款无尾礼服斗篷，搭配杜嘉班纳白衬衫和卡罗琳娜·海莱拉亮片裙子，这些服装都比常规服装（甚至比常规黑领结）更庄严气派。
That left it to the second lady, Ms. Vance, to go through the motions of playing by the old rules.
这就把按照老规矩走过场的事留给了第二夫人——万斯夫人。
Which she did with deliberation.
而万斯夫人很严谨地守了规矩。
Ms. Vance hewed to the America-first designer narrative, with one important exception, as well as to the practice of wearing designers both classic and new, the better to share the spotlight.
她不仅遵守经典和新锐设计师的衣服都穿的做法，还遵守了美国第一的设计师叙事（只有一个重要的例外），这样可以更好地分享聚光灯。
It began on Saturday night at the vice president-elect’s dinner, when she wore a black velvet column from Oscar de la Renta, that being a bipartisan go-to brand for first ladies on both sides of the aisle.
首先是周六晚上的副总统当选人晚宴，当时她身穿奥斯卡·德拉伦塔的黑色天鹅绒窄长裙，这是民主、共和两党第一夫人的首选品牌。
The sartorial balancing act continued through the wreath-laying at Arlington, when Ms. Vance appeared in a white Sergio Hudson matching dress and coat, a nod to a Black designer who was favored by Michelle Obama and Kamala Harris.
在阿灵顿公墓敬献花圈时，这种着装平衡行为仍在继续，当时万斯夫人身穿塞尔吉奥·哈德森的白色套装连衣裙和大衣亮相，这是对这位黑人设计师的致敬，米歇尔·奥巴马和卡玛拉·哈里斯都对他青睐有加。
Her outreach was further underscored at the president-elect’s candlelight dinner, when she wore a dress by the Indian designer Gaurav Gupta to honor her Indian heritage.
她的这种主动表示在当选总统的烛光晚宴上得到了进一步突显，当时她穿的是印度设计师高拉夫·古普塔的长裙，是对自己印度血统的致敬。
And it culminated in more Oscar de la Renta at the swearing-in.
而在就职典礼上，她再次选择了奥斯卡·德拉伦塔，她的服饰礼仪至此达到顶峰。
(Oscar de la Renta dressed Hillary Clinton and Laura Bush for previous inaugurations. )
（希拉里·克林顿和劳拉·布什在之前的就职典礼上穿的都是奥斯卡·德拉伦塔。）
Ms. Vance’s clothes, along with Mrs. Trump’s look, reflected that fact that, much as with the tech titans at the swearing-in, some leaders in the fashion industry are creating distance between themselves and the much-publicized efforts of late 2016 to move away from the Trump family and administration.
万斯夫人的着装以及特朗普夫人的着装反映了这样一个事实：就像参加了宣誓就职典礼的科技巨头一样，一些时尚界的领袖正在与2016年底声势浩大的努力拉开距离，在2016年，许多时尚界人士刻意疏远特朗普家族和政府。（注：特朗普第一次当选时，许多设计师公开表示不会为特朗普家族的人提供服装。）
Instead, they are reframing the relationship.
相反，他们现在正重新构建与特朗普政府的关系。
“The tradition of the presidential inauguration embodies the beauty of American democracy,” Mr. Lippes said in a statement.
“总统就职典礼的传统体现了美国民主之美，”利普斯在一份声明中说，
“Mrs. Trump’s outfit was created by some of America’s finest craftsmen, and I take great pride in showing such work to the world.”
“特朗普夫人的服装是由美国一些最优秀的匠人所制作的，我非常自豪能向世界展示这样的作品。”
Alex Bolen, the chief executive of Oscar de la Renta (which also outfitted Ivanka Trump for the Arlington ceremony and the candlelight dinner, and may take the record for most inaugural outfits by any one label), wrote much the same in a text.
奥斯卡·德拉伦塔的首席执行官亚历克斯·博伦在短信中也表达了同样的意思（该品牌还为伊万卡·特朗普在阿灵顿仪式和烛光晚宴中提供了服装，可能创下了单个品牌为就职典礼提供服装次数最多的记录）。
“Oscar always felt that we should try to associate our brand with women of accomplishment — leaders and doers,” he said.
“奥斯卡一直认为，应该努力将我们的品牌与卓有成就的女性——领导者和实干家——联系起来，”博伦说，
“We would never decline the opportunity to work with a leader based solely on their politics.
“我们永远不会仅仅因为一个领导者的政治立场而拒绝与他们合作的机会。
Further, as an American brand, we are honored to be associated with the wonderful traditions surrounding our presidential inauguration.”
此外，作为一个美国品牌，我们很荣幸能与总统就职典礼的光荣传统联系在一起。”
