评论
打印
Fashion was a type of credential, and wearing the wrong clothing could be considered a type of fraud.
时尚是一种证件，穿错衣服可以被认为是一种欺诈。
For instance, the Florentine patriarch, Cosimo de' Medici, once said, "One can make a gentleman from two yards of red silk."
例如，佛罗伦萨族长科西莫·德·美第奇经说过，“两码红色丝绸可以造就绅士。”
And this worry about the fraudulent use of fashion led the elite to pass laws that held that only they could wear the most high status and luxurious fashions, so things like jewels, precious metals, fur and red silk were restricted by law to the aristocracy and royalty.
由于担心时尚的欺诈性使用，精英们通过了法律，认为只有他们才能穿最高地位和最奢华的时尚，所以珠宝、贵金属、毛皮和红丝等东西都被法律限制在贵族和皇室手中。
And in a way, it's not all that different today.
在某种程度上，今天的情况并没有太大的不同。
Even today, we used clothing and fashion as a way to signal identity and status and belonging, whether it's the expensive high fashions you might find on Madison Avenue or the edgy styles of an urban street culture.
即使在今天，我们仍将服装和时尚作为一种身份、地位和归属感的象征，无论是你在麦迪逊大道上看到的昂贵的高级时装，还是城市街头文化中的前卫风格。
So maybe it's not surprising that we also judge each other in part based on what we're wearing.
因此，我们在一定程度上根据着装来判断对方，或许也就不足为奇了。
The problem is that we're not always very good at it.
问题是我们并不总是在这方面做得很好。
We could make serious mistakes that can have real consequences.
我们可能会犯严重的错误，这些错误可能会产生真正的后果。
So it works pretty good when we're dealing with people who are a lot like ourselves.
因此，当我们与我们非常相似的人打交道时，这种方法非常有效。
So I'm not bad at evaluating the wardrobes of college professors, lawyers, artsy types who live in big cities.
因此，我很擅长评估住在大城市的大学教授、律师和艺术类人士的着装。
But we're not so good when it comes to dealing with people from other walks of life.
但是，当涉及到与来自各行各业的人打交道时，我们就不那么擅长了。
Here's an example.
这里有一个例子。
A former student of mine, who was the first in her family to attend college, told me this.
我以前的一个学生，她是家里第一个上大学的，她跟我说了这样一件事。
She got a job interview, and she really wanted the job, and so she wore her very best dress to the interview.
她得到了一次工作面试机会，她真的很想得到这份工作，所以她穿着她最好的衣服去面试。
Problem was when she got there, the other people in the office thought her dress looked like a party dress, so they thought she was dressed up to go clubbing afterwards, later in the evening, and wasn't that serious about the job.
问题是，当她到达那里时，办公室里的其他人认为她的衣服看起来像派对礼服，所以他们认为她是为了晚些时候去夜店而盛装打扮的，对这份工作并不是那么认真。
They misread her clothing and therefore they misread her motivations.
他们误读了她的衣着，因此误读了她的动机。
Another problem is that a lot of our ideas about professionalism were established when large groups of people were excluded from the professions.
另一个问题是，当大量的人被排除在专业之外时，我们很多关于专业的想法就建立起来了。
And as a consequence, those groups have a harder time finding something that looks professional and is appropriate for them.
因此，这些群体很难找到看起来专业且适合他们的服装。
Just think of all the grief Hillary Clinton got about her pantsuits.
想想希拉里·克林顿因她的裤装而受到的所有悲痛吧。
Bill Clinton never had those problems.
比尔·克林顿从来没有遇到过这些问题。
And women of color often suffer under dress and grooming codes that were based on the hair texture common to white people.
有色人种女性经常在着装和发型方面遭受痛苦，而那些装扮更适合白人女性的头发质地
So a lot of workplace dress codes still forbid braids and locks, styles that are well suited to the texture of African-American's hair.
因此，许多工作场所的着装规定仍然禁止扎辫子和留卷发，这种发型非常适合非裔美国人的头发质地。
And women in those workplaces face a cruel choice.
而在这些工作场所的女性面临着一个残酷的选择。
They either need to straighten their hair with harsh chemicals or cut most of it off.
他们要么需要用刺激性的化学药品把头发弄直，要么就把大部分头发剪掉。
That's just insulting, and it requires the sacrifice of these types of women that other people never have to make in order to be considered professional.
这只是一种侮辱，这需要这些类型的女性做出牺牲，而其他人从来不需要做出牺牲就被认为是专业的。
And finally, some of our ideas about what's appropriate are based on stereotypes.
最后，我们关于“什么是合适的”一些想法是基于刻板印象。
And so, for instance, a lot of workplace dress codes still require women to wear high-heeled shoes.
因此，例如，许多工作场所的着装规定仍然要求女性穿高跟鞋。
