Don’t blink or you’ll miss the next “new” San Francisco. This is a city that’s reinventing itself with every refresh of your Twitter feed, with cranes rising all over downtown and an army of young tech workers pouring into neighborhoods across the city. In the ’60s, San Francisco was synonymous with the hippie counterculture; in the ’90s, it was the dot-com boom (and eventual bust, in the early 2000s); more recently, it was the ripening of the Bay Area food movement. Now it’s home to such new-establishment icons of the digital economy as Airbnb, Uber and, yes, Twitter. But don’t be fooled by the shiny patina: San Francisco is more than just the physical headquarters of our virtual world. There are some things that haven’t changed, and by themselves, are reason enough to revisit: the mind-boggling views along that glorious waterfront; the Mission’s still-feisty, freaky, welcome-all-comers character; the meandering natural pleasures of Golden Gate Park. Even when classic San Francisco rubs up against new San Francisco, the friction, though at times contentious (Google bus protests, the anti-eviction fight), is also where the community-conscious activist roots of this city are as vital and visible as ever.
别眨眼,否则你就会错过“下一秒的”旧金山。你的Twitter首页每刷新一次,这座城市就会自我更新一次。高耸的起重机遍布市区,年轻的科技工作者成群结队地涌入城市的各个角落。上世纪60年代,旧金山是“嬉皮反主流文化”的代名词;到了90年代,这里成为了网络爆炸的发源地(这股热潮最终在21世纪初衰落);近年,湾区的食品运动在这里发展成熟。如今,旧金山是新兴数字经济的大本营,其中的代表包括Airbnb、Uber,当然还有Twitter。不过,别被它光鲜的外表蒙蔽了:旧金山不仅仅是网络虚拟世界的“实体总部”。这里仍有一些始终没变的元素,而这些元素足以成为你故地重游的理由:海滨沿岸令人惊叹的壮丽景色;教会区(Mission)那依旧活跃、古怪又好客的个性;漫步于金门公园(Golden Gate Park),体会大自然的乐趣。当传统与现代碰撞之时,尽管这些摩擦有时存在争议(比如抵制谷歌员工班车、反驱逐运动),但这正是这座城市中具有社区意识的激进分子的根基所在,它的重要性和显著性也从未消减。